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chopper
Moderator
Illinois
USA
1228 Posts |
 Posted - 09/13/2006 : 11:55:41
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| A lot of people seem to like the Krylon fusion paints that are supposed to bond to plastic better than normal paint. Others have had good luck with primering and painting using normal paint. Either way it will probably chip somewhere at sometime, but is easily touched up to keep it looking nice. |
Edited by - swhenrik on 10/03/2007 15:01:28 |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2007 : 10:27:15
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List of suppliers of Krylon Fusion:
Krylon website: http://www.krylon.com/
Walmart
K-mart
Home Depot
Michael's Crafts
True Value
Napa Auto Parts
Autozone
Ace Hardware
Another commonly used paint is Duplicolor for plastic trim:
Auto Zone
Advanced Auto Parts |
Edited by - swhenrik on 09/26/2007 07:05:49 |
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jasncab
Forum Admin
Phoenix
AZ
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2007 : 18:12:58
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I power washed a power wheels that had some sun damage. The sun damage makes it somewhat pitted in a nice way. Other areas I DID NOT sand or prep other than cleaning. Then I applied Krylon as suggested on the can. Shake it for 2 minutes, hold it 8 inches away and apply several light coats. By light coat I take that to mean - not running, powder like looking, the base color of the vehicle is still showing through - predominantly in fact.
Anyway - it worked great. No peeling after about 9 months on the car in the heat of the sun (but not direct sunlight).
Oh yeah - I wore blue gloves the whole time, as you can imagine. |
*I work here - but don't tell your wife - she will kill me. |
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radarnick
Journeyman Modder
Front Royal
VA
USA
442 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2007 : 21:16:29
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1. Take off parts to be painted most the time a whole tear down is what I do.
2. Remove all stickers. Then clean off any glue with nail polish remover. BE CAREFUL, too much can mess up - (melt) plastic. Or try WD-40
3. Wash all the parts with dish soap or simple green
4. Using a SOS pad with water, SCRUB and SCUFF all the parts to help with paint sticking to the parts.
5. Wash all the parts with dish soap or simple green.
6. Let it dry, or dry off with LINT FREE cloth. Good paper towels, not the cheap ones, or blue shop towels, is what I use.
7. Put on RUBBER GLOVES. Using window cleaner or alcohol, wipe parts clean again. WAIT 30 min to 1 hr
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!NOW WE CAN PAINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IF IT IS TOO HUMID DON"T PAINT OR PAINT WILL LOOK CLOUDY
1. Start with a very light coat of paint, just dust first coat of paint (so you can see through it). WAIT 3 min
2. DUST 2 coats of paint. WAIT 15 min (just starting to completely cover)
3. Put on a light coat of paint. WAIT 15 to 20 min
4. Put another coat of paint. If it looks glossy, LEAVE it, too much paint will run and drip. WAIT 30 to 40 min
5. Hopefully your last coat of paint
I have painted many Vec. real cars too. These are some home brew tips that most of us can get or have handy |
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catastrophic
Journeyman Modder
Winter Park
FL
USA
251 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2007 : 11:26:05
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I just finished giving a faded blue f150 a shiny new fire-engine red paint job. I'm quite happy with the results aesthetically, but the boy hasn't received it yet so I don't know how it will stand up to his special brand of "use".
The method I used was:
1. Take apart as much as you can. It's much easier to paint parts than to try to do the entire thing at once.
2. Clean everything with an ammonia-based cleaner before you start. Give it a nice long time to dry.
3. Krylon Fusion does not require a primer, so you're good to go. The whole painting process took several days, as I applied around 10 light coats with several hours dry time in between. This may be overkill, but I've heard too many stories of paint jobs peeling up with a fingernail scratch because of lack of drying time or heavy coats.
4. The secret to spray paint is to hold the can about 10" away from the surface, and start at one end of the vehicle. When you first press the button, make sure that you aren't pointing at the painting surface yet, then sweep slowly down the body in one direction. Release the button after the stream is off the body. This method keeps you from getting those start and stop blotches. Now start again from the same direction and make your next pass overlap your previous one just slightly. Don't worry about full coverage with your first couple of coats. You'll get full coverage eventually with successive coats.
5. Be patient, allow ample drying time (hours) between coats. It only took me about 5 minutes to apply a light coat to the entire body of the truck, so every couple of hours I'd just run out to the garage, apply a coat, then go back to whatever I was doing. A few days of this (plus nice long drying time overnight) will give you a decent thickness that is properly dried.
6. Since you are doing so many coats, there are many more opportunities to screw up. Just make sure you do the slow sweeping in one direction thing every time and be patient!
7. After I was happy with the base coat I let it cure for another 24 hours, then repeated the process with 3 coats of high gloss clear for that fire engine shininess and to hopefully protect all my hard work.
I have no idea if this was worth it in the long run, but I am extremely happy with the finish. Time will tell about the durability, but I have a good feeling. I'll post some pics when I am done installing the siren/megaphone and the button activated windshield-washer pump powered squirty nozzles |
Single Handedly Saving Central Florida's Landfills, One Lame-Brained Idea At A Time |
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FAQ - What paint to use on plastic & Painting tips
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