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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
 Posted - 04/04/2008 : 11:40:15
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Here's a thread for easy reference to info on installing a remote kill switch, and installing a working key switch.
As a safety note, be sure there is a fuse or breaker between the battery and anything you add to the factory wiring. More info here:
FAQ - Do I need an inline fuse/circuit breaker? |
Edited by - swhenrik on 04/04/2008 12:27:18 |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
|
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
|
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2008 : 12:03:29
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Wiring it in to your vehicle:
There are 2 options here.
For a key switch, you'll most likely cut one of the wires coming off the battery, and put the relay in that line.
For a remote kill switch, doing the above is an option, but I think a better setup is if the remote not only cuts the power, but also applies the stock brakes, to possibly save kids in a panic situation. Here's a diagram to show how to do that:
A couple notes about the diagram above:
- The above diagram was specifically for a new style, Power Wheels brand wiring harness, with a single battery and an all-in-one high/low/reverse shifter. Different models will look different. The important thing is to cut the power to the motors, and to get the braking effect it must be redirected from the motors through the braking circuit.
- The colors vary from model to model. The diagram above should show an "orange" wire as the brake wire, not cyan, as that is the most common. But it's NOT the only color ever used.
- The resistor isn't always present. Seems the newest models of Power Wheels don't use them at all. Adding one is an option, and is covered in other topics. Even if you don't have a resistor, you would still connect to the braking circuit!
- I don't show a diode between the remote and the relay. I probably should. When the relay drops, it sends a huge power burst back that could cook the remote, depending on how well it handles current. Anything rated for 6 amps or more (all the ones in the links above) probably won't have a problem. The diode would go between the positive and negative wires between the remote and the relay. It won't flow any current normally, but it shorts out that spike coming back. |
Edited by - swhenrik on 04/30/2008 11:26:36 |
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treebeme
Advanced Modder
Holtsville
NY
USA
3209 Posts |
Posted - 04/18/2008 : 10:56:43
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As an option, you could tap an indicator light off of the positive wire between the remote and the 30 amp automotive relay. Ground it to the same place you are grounding the remote. This way when the remote is enabled you will know it by seeing the indicator light.
This could be important because even though the remote relay only draws power while actively switching, the 30 amp automotive relay coil will be draining power the entire time the vehicle is enabled. You would want to make sure that the remote is off when you put it away so that the battery doesn't go dead in the vehicle when not using it.
You could go one step further and use a lighted switch instead of an indicator light. Not only would it give you the lighted warning, but you can use the switch to manually cut power to the automotive relay if the keychain remote is not with you at the time. The positive wire from the remote would go to the main power contact on the lighted switch. Connect the ground wire from the lighted switch to the same place you are grounding the remote. And instead of having the trigger wire from the automotive relay going directly to the remote, have it go to the NO (normally open) contact on the lighted switch. Note that this would only be a manually override for turning the system off. You would have to have both the switch on and the remote in the on position to drive the vehicle. But if only the switch or only the remote is off, the vehicle would be off. |
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Screamin Demon (600 watt scooter motor, 36v scooter controller)
Red Harley (trike, 24v scooter controller, 13t MFJ gearboxes/motors)
KFX Quad (24v scooter controller, MFJ 12t gearboxes/motors)
Fire Rescue Jeep (24v scooter controller, 15t #7 gearboxes/motors)
Franken(berry)beast (24v scooter controller, 2-250Watt Scooter motors)
Grave Digger (21T gearboxes)
Super Shock
Razor MX-350 Motorcycle
Projects
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Jeep Wrangler (on hold)
Barbie Cruzin Tunes Jeep (24v scooter controller)
TCV Indy Racer (24v scooter controller)
Gator (on hold)
Silverado Dragster (on hold)
Apache (on hold)
Metal big wheel (24v scooter controller)
Jeep Aftershock |
Edited by - treebeme on 04/18/2008 11:30:20 |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
Posted - 04/30/2008 : 11:34:04
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There are a lot of combinations of modifications... I'm not about to draw a diagram for every one, but I can give some quick hints.
If you want to run a key switch AND a remote shut-off, simply put the key switch in the circuit that supplies power TO the remote. This way it still only requires a single relay. In my diagrams, it's the wire furthest to the right. By having it there, power will be cut to the remote, which will then cause the relay to drop into it's "OFF" state. This will also keep the remote from draining the battery... a nice addition.
Adding a NOS setup with a remote or key switch? I haven't put any thought into a NOS setup..... but for starers, look at the "higher voltage" diagram. Put in a SPDT switch (likely a relay) that switches the power wire going INTO the throttle switch to change between being connected to just the 12 volt battery in one position, or the 2 batt's in series in the other position. |
Projects: Jeep, Bigfoot, Lil' Quad, Dora Quad, Dirt Grinder, Nascar, Intro, Ultimate Gaucho |
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swhenrik
Moderator
Pengilly
MN
USA
4067 Posts |
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FAQ - Remote kill switches, and key switches
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