These forums are archived!
Please create a new account at our new forums here: http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com
ModifiedPowerWheels.com powerwheels upgrades, peg-perego and others very welcome

Specializing in Peg Perego and Power Wheels Parts and Machines
Udemy Course
Home | My Files | Profile | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ | RSS allows you to view new posts anywhere!!
 All Forums
 Modifications by Category
 Motors/Gearing/Drivetrain
 PW Scooter Drive Mod
 Forum Locked
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2006 :  19:19:02  Show Profile
Here are some pictures of the Lightning PAC drive based mod I'm doing. The goal is to have a durable drivetrain that can handle about anything, including 2 riders. Speed is not the end goal, but an increase over stock is desirable also.
Giranger has been doing a lot of my R&D. Because of what he has learned I'm going to split the axle at the center bearing so the Jeep will turn. I've also cut metal for a second motor mount but am going to hold off and see how it does with 1 wheel drive.
To start with I plan on testing with straight 12v, then adding variable power once everthing is proven. Trying to do to much at once has bitten me before, so this time I'm going slow.


26.6 KB


28.31 KB


43.23 KB


29.53 KB

Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9

Edited by - Jamesonsdad on 07/27/2006 20:17:48

chopper
Moderator


Illinois
USA

1228 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2006 :  19:46:52  Show Profile  Visit chopper's Homepage  Click to see chopper's MSN Messenger address
That looks great....is that aluminum angle you're using?
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2006 :  20:16:09  Show Profile
Naw, aluminum would be too light. I'm building a tank.

It's actually an old bedframe that cost me a couple of bucks. Aluminum would be a better all around choice but I don't have a welder for it and the heavy gauge stuff costs a ton.
I did pick up a few sticks of thin aluminum angle to reinforce the bumbers though. As much as this thing is going to weigh, they would probably break when you went to pick it up without reinforcement.

Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

K-man
Journeyman Modder

Paducah
KY
USA

484 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2006 :  06:55:04  Show Profile
Well that's a pretty slick setup.

If you retain the plastic wheels you may be able to get away with a solid axle? It should do great just running it like a stock PW with 12V, lots of torque, thats the way the scooter ran anyway, and it had rubber tires. I believe the top speed was 7mph but those tires may be larger making it a bit faster. The scooter had a circuit board that had a small amount of soft start built into it, you might consider using it to control the motor? It may be more trouble than it is worth though.
Go to Top of Page

TiddlerRacer
Senior Modder

Adrian
MI
USA



1849 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2006 :  15:30:54  Show Profile
Nice work! Man I wish I owned a welder...the trouble I could create then!

Can't wait to read about the performance.

****Testing the limits of Fisher Price engineering on a daily basis.****
Go to Top of Page

Giranger
Apprentice Modder



USA

88 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2006 :  17:06:50  Show Profile  Visit Giranger's Homepage
Nice work and glad I can help with your R&D LOL. Not too sure where I'm going with mine just yet. I have a mig welder here and also tons of aluminum. Used to work at an aviation company that threw out tons of different sizes and shapes of angled alumunum and sheets of it diff thickness if it didnt have a control number on it. Plus have tons of sheets of steel and titanium.

Note to self: find an electric scooter for parts LOL

5 Jeeps and 2 Quads
My 96 XJ Cherokee Lifted 6" running 33's LOL
1 Aftershock Wrangler(currently being modded)
2 Barbie Cruizin' Tunes Wranglers
1 Girls Wrangler
1 Old Ninja
1 New Ninja
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/01/2006 :  08:33:08  Show Profile
Well I finally had enough time to get things together enough for a test run.
Here was the setup:

  • Solid rear axle with one drive motor on the right side as pictured above.
  • Stock wiring harness "thrown" in with 1 12v18AH battery and circuit breaker extracted from a stock 12v battery, meaning 12v forward only, no reverse.
  • Stock plastic tires all around.
  • No cooling in place.
  • No circuit card installed
  • One experienced 50lb test driver was on board.


The results were pretty good. The biggest complaint was lack of steering due to the solid axle.
Other observations:
  • I didn't mount the motor far enough away from the axle which allowed the idler pully to push the belt into itself when things flexed during braking. The fix for this won't be easy.
  • Speed was about 8-9mph estimated on pavement.
  • The single motor had enough torque to drive the Jeep fine on paved surfaces with moderate hills. However a foray into the grass caused the stock circuit breaker to trip after about 30'.
  • The motor did not get warm at all after about 10mins of steady driving. The motor wires were warm to the touch but comforable to hold.
  • Braking action was good with the stock resistor.
  • Steering was terrible. The axle will need to be split to improve handling.
  • It was a lot quieter without the gearboxes


I won't need to install a scooter controller to get more speed, but maybe could use one just for the variable throttle and onboard charging at some time. I'm pondering a second drive motor to improve off-road ability but haven't decided yet. If I added the second motor then they could be wired in parallel series to keep the speed reasonable with the 24v scooter controller.
So many ideas, so little time.



Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9

Edited by - Jamesonsdad on 08/01/2006 09:01:38
Go to Top of Page

sporty982000
Journeyman Modder


illinois
USA

231 Posts

Posted - 08/01/2006 :  09:16:52  Show Profile  Visit sporty982000's Homepage
JamesonDad,


It was great to get the initial first run tests. And comments and issues.

I am keeping a close eye on your project. Because some of it is related to what I am hoping to do next year.

keep up the fantastic work.

Sporty
Go to Top of Page

TheRASGuy
Apprentice Modder


NJ
USA

98 Posts

Posted - 08/01/2006 :  18:23:52  Show Profile
Used scooter - parts only

eBAY : http://cgi.ebay.com/USED-scooter-for-parts-or-repair_W0QQitemZ150018041677QQihZ005QQcategoryZ75068QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Yes it is a sickness ;-)

Green Jeep Wrangler @ 18V, Barbie Jeep - restoration work in progress White/Pink, 1 Red Wrangler - project car, (Horn, lights, fogs, siren, strobes, etc) a PW NINJA ATV (stock for now) and a Peg Gaucho w/o battery - another project.
Go to Top of Page

sporty982000
Journeyman Modder


illinois
USA

231 Posts

Posted - 08/01/2006 :  21:06:54  Show Profile  Visit sporty982000's Homepage
I have a relative that has a scooter pretty close to that make and model.

They have had to replace the motor and belt on the unit a few times.

It moves slow and lacks horsepower, but with a different gear ratio and set up, it may have some potential.

Sporty
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/03/2006 :  15:31:59  Show Profile
This is the type of scooter I got my parts from. It's an authentic FP PW so I'm not straying too far from stock. I tried to get a wheelchair scooter for parts but it was way to much money.



Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

sporty982000
Journeyman Modder


illinois
USA

231 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2006 :  04:06:35  Show Profile  Visit sporty982000's Homepage
Kewl,

never seen one of those before.

here is a picture of a scooter, like the x-treme scooter.

I assembled piece by piece, from a variety of scooter parts and pieces.

I painted it and did the decals and pin striping myself.



136.95 KB
Go to Top of Page

lowprofile
New Member

Long Island
NY
USA

23 Posts

Posted - 08/05/2006 :  06:25:10  Show Profile
Well done!
Fixing the problem with the rubbing idler pulley should only require a slightly longer idler arm which will move the pulley closer to the wheel.
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/05/2006 :  20:18:56  Show Profile
A longer arm for the idler pully is a good idea.
For right now I'm just going to tweak the motor and axle apart as much as possible and hope that less flex will occur with the axle split and another motor on the other wheel.
I just got the the second drive setup today (Thanks K-man) and hope to get it installed by this time next week. I'll post the results as soon as I have them.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/12/2006 :  21:02:23  Show Profile
Finally got things together enough today for another test drive.
Below are the changes since the first run two weeks ago followed by the results.

  • I have added another scooter drive setup identical to the first on the other rear wheel
  • "Stock" (10ga) wiring harness. Motors are in series/parallel for low/high.
  • The axle has been split at the center bearing.
  • The steering linkage has been rebuilt but the stock geometry was retained for this test.
  • Rubber undercoating on the tires.


Once again the test run went good but wasn't problem free. The biggest problem now is the belts slipping on the motor cogs when it first starts out. I thought it was the belt rubbing itself on the first run, but upon closer inspection it appears the belt is slipping. I need to find an easy way to put a little more tension on the belts.
Also:
  • It's downright odd how quiet this thing is, esp. in the grass.
  • Speaking of grass, it goes, but much more belt slipping due to the increased resistance. The breaker also tripped again but not as soon.
  • The handling problem was solved by splitting the axle.
  • This thing is fast even on 12v. When I put a scooter controller in it I will definetely have to throttle limit it or lock the shifter in low.
  • The undercoating on the rear tires limited tire spin and probably worsened the belt slip.


I'll keep tinkering with it until it's right or my wife won't let me anymore.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/13/2006 :  06:56:58  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Looks like the belt tensioner is spring loaded? If yes, the reason the belt is slipping is that driving in one direction tightens the belt on the tensioner side, pushing the tightener out and allowing the other side of the belt to get loose, allowing the belt to jump. To fix it, either add another tensioner on the other side of the belt, or easier yet, lock the existing tensioner from moving at all. There's no suspension or reason for the tensioner to have to move once set. I'd also recommened putting the tensioner on the part of the belt that is only tensioned when going in reverse, to reduce drag going forward.... in your case it would be on the bottom.
Go to Top of Page

sporty982000
Journeyman Modder


illinois
USA

231 Posts

Posted - 08/13/2006 :  12:15:00  Show Profile  Visit sporty982000's Homepage
here is a link to a site who has modded a power wheel.

might be very usefull. Electric mods.

http://www.cox-internet.com/drspiff/CARS/PW_jeep.htm
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2006 :  07:10:05  Show Profile
swhenrik, I had to reread your post a couple of times to get it, but I believe that you are 100% correct in your diagnosis.
When running a single motor, the tensioner was on the side that pulls when in reverse. Hence the belt would slip only when braking. With the second motor installation being a mirror image the tensioner is on the side that pulls to go forward, hence that belt slips any time you try to move forward now.
The fix I believe will be exactly what you said, move that tensioner to the other side and if needed lock lock both tensionres in place.
I like a little give in the system that the springs provide so I won't lock them down unless needed.


This tensioner slips going forward and needs to be moved to the bottom belt like the picture below.

15.58 KB


This is the original and it only slipped a little while braking. With the other motor to help, things should be good.

14.35 KB


Thanks swhenrik for your insight!


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

K-man
Journeyman Modder

Paducah
KY
USA

484 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2006 :  07:44:27  Show Profile
Hey, hows about a picture showing the whole setup for us curious types!

I know this sounds like a cheapie idea but would it be possible to zip tie the tensioners to something on the body to test it?

If it is as quiet as the minibikes are, then it is almost creepy, just sort of takes off without all that gear grinding noise.

nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2006 :  07:50:09  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by Jamesonsdad

swhenrik, I had to reread your post a couple of times to get it....

Yeah, I have that effect.... lots of words to describe everything LOL!

One problem with flipping the tensioner that I thought of later.... you may need to find a different spring setup. The spring on there is designed to go one way, and may not like being pushed the other... Lots of possible problems could happen, like the coils getting wrapped too tight around the spool it is wrapped around, the mounts for the ends of coils may only work one direction, etc.

I'd recommend locking them down and trying it. Weld a nut to the main frame, put a bolt through it that hits the tensioner arm, add a locknut, and probably just remove the spring. Then you can easily adjust the belt tension.

I would think the belts would be OK to run semi loose, the toothed style should stay engaged fairly well. So if you lock it down, don't lock it with the belts overly tight, and you will still have some room for flex without overstretching the belt. Tighten it just enough to prevent it jumping.
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2006 :  09:23:31  Show Profile
Great ideas. When I get some time I'll figure out what will work short term easy for testing and then a final solution.
More pictures are in order I know but real life keeps getting in the way! LOL
So many mods, so little time.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 08/21/2006 :  07:35:00  Show Profile
I finaly had a minute to put together a repositioned idler arm for the drivers side. It is untested as of now but should work.

As a side note, when I took the dash off so the Jeep would lay flat on its back I noticed a wire broken off of the keyed switch for the scooter controller. Maybe, just maybe, I didn't fry it after all.
Once the driveline is proven on straight 12v I'll try that old contoller again.

Repositioned idler. Now the lower belt is tensioned on both sides.


20.97 KB

Here's the complete setup. Note the modded steering linkage. I'm going to run light aluminum angles to the bumpers to stiffen them up. They flex a lot when picking this beast up.



23.49 KB

A closer shot of the drive train with both scooter motors tucked, for the most part, in the space between the footwell and original motor compartment.


21.17 KB


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

greatdane
Expert Modder

Northwest
IN
USA

737 Posts

Posted - 08/21/2006 :  09:08:55  Show Profile
Jamesonsdad,

Very clean install-great job-

you have way more patience and discipline than I- as I would have had to try the scooter contorller now....

Looking forward to your results
Go to Top of Page

lowprofile
New Member

Long Island
NY
USA

23 Posts

Posted - 08/26/2006 :  23:00:48  Show Profile
Fantastic job!!! Good luck with getting the gremlins worked out.
Go to Top of Page

ebusby
Journeyman Modder


okinawa
Japan

158 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2006 :  02:21:03  Show Profile
looks great man!! what made you choose scooter motors? once again that thing looks professional!

power wheeling internationally!
Go to Top of Page

EasyGo
New Member




24 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2006 :  07:45:16  Show Profile
Jamesonsdad,

I've had a scooter motor mod in progress for a while now, but haven't had time to work on it lately... I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

Are you using the stock axle? 7/16" diameter? if so, did you find pillow block bearings with a 7/16" ID, or did you use 1/2" ID bearings with or without a shim/bushing?

The axle in my daughter's jeep is already bowed somewhat, so I am a bit dubious of the 7/16" axle... thinking maybe a 1/2" or 5/8" is more appropriate anyway.

Thanks,

-EG
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2006 :  18:24:28  Show Profile
I can really relate to the time issue.
The axle is 1/2" rod from Lowes and the bearings are Dayton bronze model 2x567 from Grainger. Everything is held together with 1/2" collars.



Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

GriptionEh
Apprentice Modder


Ontario
Canada

54 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2006 :  18:47:18  Show Profile  Send GriptionEh a Yahoo! Message
Jamesonsdad
Cool setup & very tidy work. For my new setup I've chosen 1/2" shafting for the stub axles but because I've bitten off more than I can chew it'll be awhile before its done, how much flex compared to the 7/16 rod does your new setup have? Is it a slight upgrade or a major difference? Although I'm not using them I'm curious, was there enough extra material in the plastic wheels to drill through for the new larger shaft or did you have to make something up?

Cheers

Honeydo delinquent
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2006 :  10:13:42  Show Profile
Well we finally had some free time and completed the driveline testing with the repositioned tensioner.

It worked! No belt slipping at all on take-off and only occasionally when stopping. The set-up is definitely where it needs to be. My test driver ran the Jeep continuously for about 30 minutes in the cul-de-sac and the motors didnít even get warm.

After the undercoating wore completely off of the front tires it began pushing pretty bad so a rubber traction mod for the front is in order.

Next Iím going to put the 24v scooter controller back in, with the stock shifter to give it high/low. EDITand reverse.EDIT After a full day of testing I've decided to eliminate reverse. The belts just slip too much, esp. in the grass. I'm afraid my ultimate goal of reliability will be compromised with all that "grinding". If everything goes well Iíll take it to the ďtrackĒ for some speed runs sometime soon.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9

Edited by - Jamesonsdad on 09/04/2006 06:49:02
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2006 :  08:49:41  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Glad to hear it's all working... for the most part anyway. I'd still consider locking the tensioners to get rid of the rest of the belt jumping issues.

Ya missed Gription's questions too...
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2006 :  09:10:48  Show Profile
Ah, thanks for reminding me.
The tires are plenty big for the 1/2" axle. The 'tire' didn't even need to be stepped up-just slipped the axle through. The "spoke" piece had to be stepped up, but while it is thin it still has enough meat to do its job. I put a couple of wood screws through the spokes into the tire just to tie everything together better also. The plastic drive gear is bolted to the inner side of the tire through a metal plate that is welded to the axle. This helps keep the wheel square on the axle under load.


17.26 KB


24.96 KB

Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2006 :  09:14:15  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by swhenrik

Glad to hear it's all working... for the most part anyway. I'd still consider locking the tensioners to get rid of the rest of the belt jumping issues.





I'll try that. My fear is that they'll work loose over time-making it not maintenance free. But hey, the way I work on this thing maintenance free is just a pipe dream anyways.

Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project page:http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/weblog.php?w=9
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2006 :  18:20:08  Show Profile
Swhenrik, I should have listened to you a long time ago and locked those tensioners down earlier. Doing it completely fixed the belt slipping problem while braking and reversing. Thankyou.

The project Jeep is now complete. When possible I'll try to get some speed measurements, but lets just say it flies on 12v.

The rubber on the front tires allow power slides and donuts now instead of just sliding all over. This Jeep weighs quite a bit and most of the added weight is low to the ground so I'm not concerned about a high speed turnover.

K-man has ten bikes for sale with the motor/belt/gear drive that I used for this project so....If you want to give it a try now is the perfect time!


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project pages:Old Ryan Hull Site Blog*****NEW!***** Modified Power Wheels BLOG!
Go to Top of Page

Grant
Senior Modder

Brisbane
Queensland
Australia



1820 Posts

Posted - 09/19/2006 :  03:47:28  Show Profile  Visit Grant's Homepage
I have to say this is a pretty impressive project. Excellent work, I canít wait to hear how it performs, esp. cross country.

Go to Top of Page

jwcolby
Apprentice Modder

Hudson
NC
USA

52 Posts

Posted - 09/21/2006 :  18:45:33  Show Profile  Visit jwcolby's Homepage
One thing I didn't get on this was what you are doing for batteries. My experience with the 12v 12ah batteries that my son's Gator came with is that they don't last long. I added (2) 12v 20ah GM SLA batteries in parallel and now it never draws down the battery. Deep dischargning these batteries are not good for them.

The other question is did you ever get the controller working? And will it just run on 12v or does it require 24v?

JWC
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/21/2006 :  21:00:42  Show Profile
I'm running one 12v 18ah battery. Run time hasn't been an issue yet as the kids loose interest before the battery slows down.

The motors were originally from PW lightning pac scooters and were designed for 12v. With the stock wiring installed the motors see 6v in low speed and 12v in high.

I've decided not to install the scooter controller on this vehicle right now for a couple of reasons. Number one is I think it would make it too fast.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project pages:Old Ryan Hull Site Blog*****NEW!***** Modified Power Wheels BLOG!
Go to Top of Page

jwcolby
Apprentice Modder

Hudson
NC
USA

52 Posts

Posted - 09/23/2006 :  21:47:13  Show Profile  Visit jwcolby's Homepage
When I modded my son's gator I put in two 12v 20ah batteries in parallel with the original 12v 12 ah that came in the vehicle. In my reading about batteries the common wisdom is that you really should only dischgarge them to 50%, and anything beyond 60% starts damaging them pretty quickly. I know that when he first got the toy for his birthday, just riding it in the backyard with a bunch of kids standing in line to ride ran it down in less than 3 hours with just the original battery. When I say "ran it down" I mean to the point where it wouldn't go anymore.

At that time I didn't have my voltmeter out so I haven't a clue what the ending voltage was but you can bet it wasn't good. So when I did the mod I just pulled a number out of the air, bought two 20ah batteries and threw in the back of the thing. I figured that 40ah in parallel with the original 12ah would give me 52 ah, with a real usable 26ah (at 50%) as opposed to a usable 6 ah with just the original battery.

I also wired a radio shack digital volt meter in so that I could monitor it whenever I wanted. It turns out that ~12.1 v is 50% discharge. IIRC an AGM battery is a little higher.

State of Charge 12 Volt battery Volts per Cell
100% 12.7 2.12
90% 12.5 2.08
80% 12.42 2.07
70% 12.32 2.05
60% 12.20 2.03
50% 12.06 2.01
40% 11.9 1.98
30% 11.75 1.96
20% 11.58 1.93
10% 11.31 1.89
0 10.5 1.75

Thus my aim was to allow my son and his friends to ride for as long as they wanted without the battery ever discharging more than 50%. It turns out that a pair of 20ah was overkill but that's ok, it is serving me fine.

I am looking at doing a pwm controller as I have the skill set to do that, whereas I don't have the mechanical skills / equipment to go modding the gear box or differnet motors etc. I am interested in why you think a pwm controller would "make it too fast". I would assume that you are applying full power now, how could a pwm apply more than that?

JWC
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 09/24/2006 :  06:36:34  Show Profile
jwcolby, the reason I said a scooter PWM controller would make it too fast is because economical scooter controllers start at 24v not 12v. Thus at top speed the Jeep would be seeing 24v-which would be way to much with my set up to be safe.

One advantage of a scooter controller is the fact that they shut off automatically when battery voltage drops below a certain point to keep from ruining your batteries. That is unless you're far from home and have to push it home.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project pages:Old Ryan Hull Site Blog*****NEW!***** Modified Power Wheels BLOG!

Edited by - Jamesonsdad on 09/24/2006 07:09:12
Go to Top of Page

shark
New Member

Hickory
NC
USA

3 Posts

Posted - 11/28/2006 :  13:29:58  Show Profile
If you were to run the motors off of a 24 volt scooter controller, would you be able to use one 24V controller for the two 24V motors?
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 11/28/2006 :  20:54:55  Show Profile
Yes Shark, the plan was to run both motors off of one controller. The motors are only rated at 12v by the way, the plan was to overvolt them. The higher the voltage the higher the RPM and thus the speeeeed.

The jeep is currently inop again (I suspect the gas switch melted again.) I never did get it over to the track for time trials, although that is still in the plans. Time has been at a premium lately and other than the few minutes each day I check in here there hasn't been any Power Wheel work going on.
Jameson has discovered the freedom of the bicycle and is enjoying that right now. But all the kids that come over want to ride the jeep so I guess it will get fixed, this time with a relay or back to the scooter controller.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project pages:Old Ryan Hull Site Blog Modified Power Wheels BLOG
Go to Top of Page

shark
New Member

Hickory
NC
USA

3 Posts

Posted - 11/29/2006 :  14:19:28  Show Profile
I really like the idea of using scooter parts. I can see my older son (4 years old) is getting bored with the stock speed of his ride and needs an upgrade. My younger son (2 years old) is still happy with the speed on his. I am wanting to attempt the same thing you have done with yours. Scooter parts seem like a cost effective way to achieve the extra speed with out tearing up gear boxes and burning out motors. We have two Peg-Perego Polaris 700's, and lot's of neighbor kids that like to ride. Here is what I want to achieve:
1. I want off road capability, grass and hills.
2. I want to achieve a speed of maybe 10-15 mpm.
3. I want it to be able to haul two kids around (100+ lbs).
Here are my questions:
1. What would you recomend for motor size if I were to have two motors? 300,400,500 Watt?
2. Would chain drives be easier than belt drives?
3. What kind of controller? If its a 24 volt controller does that mean it can run any wattage motor that is advertised as 24Volts?
Go to Top of Page

Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder

Fayetteville
Georgia
USA

342 Posts

Posted - 11/29/2006 :  20:18:44  Show Profile
Those are some lofty goals for a PW! You are going to need lots of torque to haul 2 kids around off road.
Plan on using 10ga wire and high wattage motors. The people at TNC scooters will be able to help you better than I can at matching motors with controllers and selecting suitable gear ratios.
To answer your questions:
1. Motor size-big is always better.
2. I used belts because that's how the motors I got were configured. Scooters usually use chains. Ask the people at TNC.
3. Ask TNC. Controllers are rated in watts, but I think some can be 'pushed' more than others.

Have you seen GIRANGERS project page? http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=721
He did a full scooter chain drive variable speed mod with TNC parts. He may have the answers I don't.
Good luck and keep us posted.


Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?


See my project pages:Old Ryan Hull Site Blog Modified Power Wheels BLOG
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 Forum Locked
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
 Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.05