These forums are archived!
Please create a new account at our new forums here: http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com
ModifiedPowerWheels.com powerwheels upgrades, peg-perego and others very welcome

Specializing in Peg Perego and Power Wheels Parts and Machines
Home | My Files | Profile | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ | RSS allows you to view new posts anywhere!!
 All Forums
 Personal Stuff - Introductions, forsale, reviews!
 Projects Pages! (blogs?)
 Jeep Wrangler build-up
 Forum Locked
 Printer Friendly
Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 2

swhenrik
Moderator



Pengilly
MN
USA

4067 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2006 :  08:40:19  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Limited Edition Jeep Wrangler
Green, 12 volt, uni-body, etc....

My biggest concern with every powerwheels I have seen is the steering linkages. They are usually very hard to turn the steering wheel, and the amount of leverage is overwhelming for the intended users, especially when off-roading.

EDIT: I'm cleaning up the thread for ease of reading and finding info.

Edited by - swhenrik on 06/07/2007 09:21:55

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2006 :  10:59:52  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I live in the country, dirt driveway, hilly yard, trails in the woods, and a large R/C track in the back yard.... so I'm concerned about off-road ability more then anything.

My track: http://www.mnnitroseries.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10040/normal_HPIM0541.jpg

I picked up 2 riding mowers from a co-worker for free for parts. One had rack and pinion steering, the other had a "pinion and sector" type steering. I opted for the rack and pinion for this project.

Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:09:34
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  08:20:45  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Here's the new front axle:



165.79 KB

1" square tubing for the axle itself, 2 nuts welded inside each end, drilled to be a snug fit with the stock spindle.

I replaced the flimsy plastic steering block with new steel plates, welded to the spindle. In order to make the arms as long as I needed, I had to angle them toward the center to clear the tires. The steering is behind the axle, so angling them toward the center also adds ackerman, which was actually another goal.

The elimination of the plastic steering blocks required welding a collar to the spindle to keep it from sliding "up" too far into the axle. I used a 1/2" nut with the threads drilled out, welded to the spindle. I also needed a collar to hold the wheel from sliding "in" too far. For this I used a 1/2" flat washer, also welded to the spindle.

I robbed some heim joint type tie rods from an old snowmobile. I cut them in the middle, removed some length, and welded them back together. One connects the right and left wheels together, one from the right wheel to the rack and pinion.

Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:34:42
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  08:38:58  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Close up of spindle (the black collar is a stock wheel bushing):



374.36 KB


Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:34:53
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  08:40:06  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I trimmed the plastic as needed to fit the new axle into the stock front end support. The original bolts to hold this piece to the main body are now welded to the new axle.



319.62 KB


Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:35:03
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  09:00:32  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Axle installed:



260.57 KB

Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:35:14
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  09:04:48  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Close up with wheels on. You can see just how close the new steering arms are to rubbing the wheel.



383.67 KB

Close up of rack and pinion: The new steering stem is visible here. It moved down slightly, so there was more plastic trimming required to get it to clear. The rack supports the lower end of the shaft, so it no longer needs to fit tight in the body.



337.31 KB



Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:35:31
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  09:11:04  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
And here is with it turned left to lock, everything just clears, and probably turns a little sharper then stock. The Ackerman is obvious in the pics, with one wheel turned sharper then the other:



362.68 KB



As you can tell by the pics, I don't believe in paint LOL!

Edited by - swhenrik on 06/05/2007 14:38:34
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2006 :  09:54:18  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Everything moves super easy now, and almost 1 full turn lock to lock.

I also added some braces from the front axle to the rear axle

And more braces from the front axle to the front bumper. There's a nut welded to the end of the rod for the front bumper "lower" bolts to thread into. This makes a nice strong "unit" from the front bumper bolts all the way to the rear axle.


43.44 KB


I also reinforced the front bumper "upper" mounts. The original mount was screws into the grill, nothing else. And the grill just snaps in place. Pulling on the top of the front bumper would pull out the grill. So, I added MUCH longer bolts, a nut behind the first layer of "chassis" plastic and another nut under the hood. It's not going anywhere not!:


39.82 KB


Looking at it from the top, it's hard to tell I did anything to it, right down to the stock steering wheel.... that's the way it should be I guess. My son tried it out last night... he is definitely physically able to turn the steering wheel now, just that he still has no interest in steering. I'm gonna have to work on that!

Edited by - swhenrik on 04/22/2008 12:16:32
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 05/10/2007 :  14:03:55  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
We were talking about ages that kids learn to steer/drive, so I'll update that now. My son learned to steer the fourwheeler at 18 months, and then mastered it within minutes. But he just couldn't get the steering wheel figured out. We've tried quite a few times having him drive the Jeep, and he just wouldn't steer!

He finally just figured it out, at about 25 months. So, I'm curious when other people's kids actually learned....

One thing that I think helped was that my wife took him on the lawnmower a couple times. Going slow, she was steering, he could see the front wheels turn. He then started steering the lawnmower a little (with us driving of course). Then he finally figured out the Jeep. The biggest problem was figuring out he had to steer it back to straight.

This is quite a relief with how much time I have into adding the rack and pinion steering and a full new front axle. It just makes it so much easier for him to steer! So, it's working well for him.

Now that he's driving it, I'm thinking about what other mods to do to increase off-road abilities.... Rubber tires? Scooter controller?

Edited by - swhenrik on 05/10/2007 14:05:10
Go to Top of Page

gameboy
Moderator

just north of austin
tx
USA



4796 Posts

Posted - 05/12/2007 :  21:11:18  Show Profile
my daughter learned at about 21 months, she is now 3 1/2 and drives better than me somtimes, now my son is a different story he is 25 months old and has no interest in steering, he is perfectly happy riding as a passenger in the (whatever) his sister is driving. so who knows when he will start to steer? he has taken longer on just about every thing( he has his own pace)


NO! he is NOT retarded! lol

free is always better


old amav rally car parts only
old ninja super shock
old jeep wrangler
old old fp sports car, broke
old ninja quad
2extreme machines
gator
yellow goucho
Go to Top of Page

TiddlerRacer
Senior Modder

Adrian
MI
USA



1849 Posts

Posted - 05/13/2007 :  05:36:33  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by gameboy

my daughter learned at about 21 months, she is now 3 1/2 and drives better than me somtimes, now my son is a different story he is 25 months old and has no interest in steering, he is perfectly happy riding as a passenger in the (whatever) his sister is driving. so who knows when he will start to steer? he has taken longer on just about every thing( he has his own pace)




This is funny, because my kids are the exact same way. My son learned to steer around 18 months on a Lil Quad and was riding his KFX all over the yard just after turning two. My daughter has NO desire to steer when you finally convince her to press the gas pedal. She would ride with her brother all day long but has no desire to do ti on her own. The funny thing is we figured she'd be off and running, running over and into everything if she couldn't steer. My son is very reserved and shy where she is very outgoing and adventerous, but once they are in the vehicle the roles reverse.

I've seen others say their younger child doesn't care to drive either and would rather ride with the older sibling. I wonder why?

****Testing the limits of Fisher Price engineering on a daily basis.****
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 05/14/2007 :  08:32:50  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
That's funny to hear these stories... My daughter, now 9 months, got her first "Ride" in the Jeep with my son. She seemed to love it. I think he's going to love giving her rides, and wondered if they would be like you guys are talking about, that she doesn't want to drive.

"He's not retarded".... Also ironic.... My son's stubborness with the steering wheel has been frustrating. But it just proves, he's not gonna do it til HE is ready.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2007 :  13:59:41  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I ordered a scooter speed control from TNC scooters CT-302S9, along with a twist throttle. And I ordered some batteries from Gruber, 2 of the 12v 7.2ah batteries. For charging, I already picked up a Schumacher 600a, so I'll have to rewire the batteries to parallel to charge each time.

I plan to run the output from the ESC directly into the existing high/low/reverse switch, but lock out the high gear so the motors will still be running with 12 volts to each. The batteries will most likely be placed under the seat, as there isn't room under the hood, so I am guessing traction won't be an issue. I guess we'll see.

The main hurdle here is going to be connecting a pedal to the twist grip, and what to do about brakes.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:01:00
Go to Top of Page

Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2007 :  18:14:37  Show Profile
quote:
The main hurdle here is going to be connecting a pedal to the twist grip, and what to do about brakes.


I recently acquired a scooter for free. I stripped it so that I could put variable speed in my son's Mustang. It was a twenty-four volt scooter. I plan on trying the Mustang at twenty-four volts now. I am having the same problem as you are right now. I'll let you know what I come up with.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
Go to Top of Page

TiddlerRacer
Senior Modder

Adrian
MI
USA



1849 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2007 :  18:28:16  Show Profile
Jamesonsdad had a sweet thumb throttle set up on a pedal for his scooter controller. I remember seeing pictures of it over on Ryan's site but I don't know if they ever migrated over here or not.

****Testing the limits of Fisher Price engineering on a daily basis.****
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/06/2007 :  07:39:28  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Yeah, I mentioned it to Jamesonsdad in another thread, he said he may have lost all the pics.... I'm really hoping he finds them, they were really good!

I think I'm going to go a slightly different route though with the pedals. Possibly just move the existing pedal over to be a brake pedal, rewired of course. Then a whole new pedal for the throttle. I am thinking either a throttle "pull" cable from the pedal, or a linkage, run up to the area under the hood where the stock battery sits. The cable would be nice because it could just be wrapped around the twist grip.

But I also want to add a switch that would apply the brakes when the throttle is completely released, so there would be 2 brake switches. The one on the throttle could be disconnected easily once the kids learn to use the seperate pedal. With all these options, there's no way I could fit everything in that tub under the stock pedal.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/07/2007 :  08:33:54  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Here's what I have so far....



I think it was Jamesonsdad that had trouble with the brake circuit frying a controller. The way I have this shown, the ESC "brake" circuit is completely isolated from the motor circuit, and the motor circuit is also cut and directed to the resistor.

I have 2 pedal switches shown. One on the left would be a normal "brake" pedal. The one on the right would be pushed whenever the throttle pedal is completely released, to act like a normal PW. But it could be removed or locked in position to not be used for more experienced drivers.

I don't have a plan for a variable brake pedal.... YET.


Edited by - swhenrik on 06/08/2007 07:47:01
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 06/07/2007 :  14:28:46  Show Profile
The stock throttle switch should currently be a SPDT switch, not a DPDT switch as far as I know. But forget everything else I said because I looked too quickly and completely screwed up at looking at the schematic in where you were having the throttle switch hooked up. My bad for looking at it too quickly. Sorry about that.

But lets assume that it ends up with a DPDT throttle switch (whether it has one now or you add one later). In your diagram (awesome work by the way), lifting off the throttle or pressing the brakes will activate the full brakes. If you wanted to make it a bit more progressive use two resistors. Leave the one alone where you have it but add a second resistor between the throttle switch and the original resistor shown in your diagram. That way just lifting off the throttle will go through both resistors which will give some braking but hitting the brake pedal will just have you going through the one resistor which will give you the normal full braking power. That will let you mimic engine braking like in a real car.

Edited by - treebeme on 06/07/2007 14:32:36
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/07/2007 :  14:39:55  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I cleaned up the thread again... but Treebeme's ideas in the post above are just too good to delete.... and I may use it in the future if my CT302-S9 ever does get used.

NeilH had some great ideas he used on his build, which is now in a thread of his own. Definitely DO check it out: http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2184

One thing to note about my setup is that I'll actually be lowering the current (amps) to 1/2 of stock, through the stock wiring and switches, by running 24 volts and the motors in series. I have no concern about burning up switches.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:32:33
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/17/2007 :  14:11:49  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I hooked up the throttle and tested it... it worked like this:
Blue to green
Red to brown
Black to black
(Big thanks again to NeilH)

In the process of searching for parts... I haven't been able to find any potentiometers that will handle large current for variable braking. I have a sewing machine sitting around, but I still doubt it will handle the braking current.

Making a pot was the next idea (from my brother, the Electrical Engineer). A few contacts on a plastic plate, and a slider to switch between them. Then just common resistors attached to each contact. Good idea? NOPE! Resistors that will handle the current aren't easy to come by either, and for the number of them that I'd need.... it would come to $20 to $40. Automotive fan resistors was a possible source, but buying them new is too spendy also. I could rob them from parts cars (at my parent's place) and test resistance, but I'm losing steam with the project as it is, I don't want to add more work. And I still haven't figured out all the pedal stuff.

So, while in the thinking process, I remembered the Curtis 1505 controller. It's also somewhat expensive, at $45, but has braking built in. Regenerative braking probably isn't going to help much on a PW, but I can get variable throttle and brakes all with a single 5k pot that I can actually find at Radio Shack, and can actually fit in the little tub under the pedal.... A whole lot less work, and probably less money well all done, then the controller and twist throttle I have now. So, my current controller may be going up for sale pretty quick here, unless I find another use for it.

A couple cool things about the 1505 setup... I can have one pedal, it will be brakes when fully released, coasting when partially pushed, and throttle when fully pushed, and all variations in between... all my safety concerns and everything all in one step.

EDIT: Seperate brake pedal idea on hold....

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:33:15
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/17/2007 :  22:00:52  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
From the page listing all the controllers http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers.html, the description for the 1505 says:
quote:
"Built-in regenerative brakes recharges battery pack and provides powerful braking when the throttle is decelerated."

Ironically, the description on eBay is actually better then on electricscooterparts own webpage...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250076873922
quote:
"The dynamic braking on these speed controllers strongly and precisely brakes the vehicle as the throttle is turned toward the deceleration position."


So I'm assuming a little here... centered is coasting, turned one way for throttle, the other way for brakes.

My yard is quite hilly, and my son drives around our track (link to pic on first page of this thread).... having no brakes would allow the speeds to get out of control.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:30:20
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/19/2007 :  10:04:49  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Not much of an update, but I picked up a 5k ohm pot last night. I had a choice between a linear taper, or audio taper. The guy at Radio Shack said the audio taper is less touchy at the low end, and ramps up faster at the high end. So, a linear taper is what I wanted. And luckily, that's the one they had in stock.

The pot turns about 330 degrees. My pedal will probably not be much more then 30 degrees of travel.... so I need a way to turn the pot faster. Gear drive?

The controller uses all 3 wires on the pot. The 3rd wire (the "wiper") is the feedback to the controller, and it's voltage needs to be varied between 0 volts, full voltage, or somewhere in between. That means I need to use the end points to get 0 or full voltage.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:36:56
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/29/2007 :  11:14:55  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I ordered a Curtis 1505 on Monday from www.electricscooterparts.com by phone. They said I'd get an email confirming. I requested info Tuesday, since I hadn't heard back, and they said they'd send an email once the tracking was figured out. I didn't get the tracking info, so I requested it. I got the email today, and it says it was delivered today. That was plenty fast considering I only chose priority mail. The slight lack of communication in no means meant they weren't on the ball getting my stuff to me.

So, I'm styling now!!! Now I just gotta figure out what I'm gonna do with pedals. So many ideas I can't even list them all. A major part of the plan is to use R/C gears to get the pot to turn 270 degrees. A 52 tooth spur gear from a Savage, and a 14 tooth clutch bell for example, I should have plenty of these laying around.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 06/29/2007 :  14:22:10  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
More about my criteria...
Setup A:
- Fully releasing throttle applies full brakes.
- Brake pedal does nothing
Setup B:
- Fully releasing throttle goes to center of pot, coast mode
- The brake pedal acts like a brake pedal
- Pressing the brake pedal and throttle at the same time will still give full brakes

I want to switch very easily between the 2 setups, even if it takes a bit more work to build it.

I would like it to look factory when done. Using PW pedals preferably.

I would like to fit all the controls in the stock tub under the pedals, for safety (no open linkages) and aeshetics.

So.... quite a few things I'm trying to do mechanically. That's the trouble with the single pot. Using 2 pots and a small DPDT switch to switch between them is another thought.... but not real simple, and may be quite abrupt going full throttle to full brakes with just the flip of a switch.

I considered setting it up to be rocker pedals, pushing one makes the other come up. But then it doesn't apply full brakes when pushing both.

There are some ways I can do all this, but they get WAY too complicated. I'm trying to find an easier way.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  13:14:07  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
The scooter controller showed up Friday. I got started Saturday morning.

First thing... get all the wiring set up. 2 piece of 4 conductor phone line for low current wiring. 7 connectors, 8 conductors, so the 8th was used for power TO the on/off switch. I ordered the 7 pin connector made for the 1505... sure glad I did!

Once wired, I tested it out, walking along side and holding the pot in my hand. The pot is actually more like 330 degrees, not the 270 I said earlier. The braking portion is only like 10 degrees. So no way would I be able to vary the braking!

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:49:58
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  13:40:34  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
So... on to building my gearbox. With 330 degrees, I decided I needed as much gear-up as possible. So, a 52 tooth spur gear for a Savage, and a 13 tooth clutch bell, 4:1 ratio. About 82.5 degrees of rotation needed on the spur.

Gearbox material is a cutting board. I hacked one up to make a chassis for a Wheely King (R/C truck). I used leftovers for this. 3 layers thick, and screws through.

I had a spare Savage tranny laying around also. It was the parts donor for the shaft to mount the spur on, and bearings for the gearbox. The end of a Savage old-style upper a-arm for a lever. Multiple mounting holes in it.

I was lucky, the pot shaft is 6mm, same size as the spur shaft I was using, so same 6x13 bearings throughout. One bearing supporting the "end" of the pot shaft, and 2 on the spur shaft. Once the 6mm holes were drilled, I drilled them part way through for the O.D. of the bearing. 1/2" holes made for pressed in bearings.

Here's the backside of the pot, and end of the shaft for the spur gear. A notch in the back for the wires, and a screw and washer to hold them in place.


57.19 KB

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 21:49:02
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  13:48:10  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
No "perfect" picture showing everything.... this should be close enough. T-Maxx coil over shock for pedal return. It also dampens the pedal movement. 1/8th scale throttle linkages.

Pedal "up"






Pedal "down"



Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  13:50:35  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Links connect to pedal with a Tamiya Suspension stay:




60.56 KB
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  13:54:01  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Pedal all mounted up. 2 screws through pedal into "suspension stay". 2 screws through pedal base into new gearbox.







Under the seat:




54.4 KB

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/14/2007 19:33:32
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2007 :  22:07:15  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I added a couple pics on the first page that I FINALLY got around to taking, showing the underside bracing.

I didn't comment yet on how well the controller works. I just can't explain how much difference it makes. My son no longer seems afraid of pushing the pedal and the sudden jerk to go along with it. Our 10 month old daughter, when riding with him, no longer bangs here head on the roll bar every time he pushes the pedal. He seems to like driving it more, Saturday night after finishing it, we had him try it out. He put more miles on it that night then it's ever had on it. More miles on it Sunday, he spent a lot of the day driving it.

Ironically, I don't think he understands the concept of pushing the pedal part way to go slow. When I explain it, he just floors it and smiles. Yet when he is driving, that pedal is let up part way very often.

The braking is not variable, at least not as much as I was hoping it would be. But it is worlds better then stock. Suddenly letting up on the throttle is slowed down by the T-Maxx shock, the brakes come on more gradual, but will still just about skid the tires within about 7 feet. Not bad!

As far as run time goes, I'm not sure.... When the kids were napping, I put the batteries on the charger.

The ESC combined with the rack and pinion steering has made the Jeep much nicer to drive. Now what? Headlights? Rubber tires? 4wd? Or move on and put the other scooter controller in something else? The Bigfoot? The Lamborghini?

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/01/2007 22:11:36
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  06:34:45  Show Profile
Beautiful pedal assembly. Blows me away.
Go to Top of Page

vwnutt
New Member

Deptford
NJ
USA

43 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  08:55:32  Show Profile
WOW! nice work!

I have O.C.D.
Obsessive.Customizing. Disorder
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  09:04:11  Show Profile
Just as another option, you could have used a slide pot instead of having to use gears with a rotary pot.

EDIT#: Or better yet, this. http://www.4qd.co.uk/accs/pots.html#plunger

Edited by - treebeme on 07/02/2007 09:17:22
Go to Top of Page

Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  09:49:34  Show Profile
Wow, those things are not cheap. 16.50 Engilsh Pounds. I don't know what the exchange rate is right this minute, but you're talking about $32-$35 American plus shipping.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  10:02:56  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Batteries Included

Wow, those things are not cheap. 16.50 Engilsh Pounds. I don't know what the exchange rate is right this minute, but you're talking about $32-$35 American plus shipping.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.



A 5k twist or thumb throttle isn't cheap either.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  10:14:16  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
They do list a 50 degree pot on that page that is reasonably priced though.... that would make life a whole bunch easier.... now that I have my gearbox all built and installed
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  10:57:05  Show Profile
Quick suggestion. If you want to maintain the posi effect of running the motors parallel, go ahead and run them parallel. From what I have read elsewhere you can add a resistor (or a second pot if you want to be adjustable) to the center lead off of your existing pot (wiper wire) so you can limit the power going to the motors to something reasonable while still getting the posi effect.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2007 :  11:59:58  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
This is another thing that amazed me.... When stock, in low speed, motors in series, 6 volts to the motors, the Jeep would get stuck on a pine cone, literally! In high speed, parallel motors, 12 volts to motors, it would climb some serious hills while spinning over rocks. Now it's running 12 volts to the motors in series, yet it has almost the exact same amount of abilities as it used to have in parallel at the same voltage. Sure, it would be better in parallel, but the added speeds seem like enough to allow momemtum to get it over obstacle. The Lil' Quad abilities also improved a huge amount when going to 12 volts.

The batteries are under the seat now. Not sure how much difference is makes, but it may very well help. Reading other stuff on the site that Treebeme linked above, they talk about adding wire length between the battery and controller is very hard on the controller itself. So, they'll probably stay there.

Also, for adding traction, I have a couple options I thought about. I considered adding ball bearings on the chassis to allow the axle to spin more easily. This would reduce friction, and reduce wear on the bushings in the wheels. I could then lock one wheel permanently to the axle, and add a way to quickly lock/unlock the other to the axle for true posi.... Of course I'd probably want to move the batteries back up front for that idea!

I'm looking for reasonably priced rubber tires and wheels. Something very close in size to stock, not only for height, but also in width.

And... I still really want to add 4wd. Left motors in parallel with each other, right motors in parallel with each other, and the 2 sides in series..... that should solve any off-road abilitiy issues. In fact I was considering a DPST on the front wheels for "selectable" 4wd.

If I still wanted to limit the pedal travel, I actually have a couple very easy ways to do it mechanically. I can adjust it so the pedal doesn't come "up" as far, therefore pushing the pedal til it hits the floor won't be turning the pot all the way. There is a built in slipper in the gearbox (left over from the savage spur), I can force it to slip with just my finger, and I'll get this result. The push rod is adjustable length, although I need to pull the pedal out to adjust that. Also, I can change the leverage to make the pedal have more or less travel compared to how much the pot turns by putting a screw in a different hole. All this adjustability was just-in-case I screwed up and the pedal travel sucked.
Go to Top of Page

NeilH
Apprentice Modder




85 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2007 :  14:13:31  Show Profile
Just ordered a linear pot and a 50 degree pot from 4qd for the next project (the big 4 seater PW)or 2. I figured I get them while I've got a couple of weeks left in UK - save on shipping.

I'll let you know how they work out.
Go to Top of Page

NeilH
Apprentice Modder




85 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2007 :  15:55:56  Show Profile
Can't write properly with all this talk of POT(s) I should have said that I have ordered the PLUNGER Pot and 50 degree pot from 4QD.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2007 :  20:38:45  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Kind of a bummer that it was available, and I didn't know... but I guess I just had to work with what I knew was available. And it's working pretty good so far. I got some decent video, but I have to edit it at home, and upload at work (dial-up at home still )
Go to Top of Page

Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2007 :  20:54:17  Show Profile
Swhenrik, you should be proud of what you made. It is impressive. I know that the right POT would have been easier, but you made something that alot of people couldn't.


It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
Go to Top of Page

NeilH
Apprentice Modder




85 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  01:44:00  Show Profile
You are not wrong, the reason I have bought the plunger pot is that there is NO WAY I could engineer such a pedal. And although the Twist Throttle with a piece of Aluminium fixed to it works on my sons Jeep, it is not the best cosmetic finish!!
That Steering rack though, seriously swhenrik, you could market and sell that, for go-karts etc - it is awesome.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:19:34  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Thanks a LOT guys, feels good to hear it.

I was browsing through pics, figured I should get a "full view" pic up. And my cheapo camera actually took a nice pic for once!




83.64 KB
Go to Top of Page

Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:40:00  Show Profile
Looking good brother.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:00:09  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I got some 12 volt 12AH batteries a couple weeks ago to run in this Jeep, the 8Ah batt's are now in the Bigfoot. Being they are under the seat, I was hoping it would help more with traction, especially when my son is in it alone. It didn't make much difference, he still gets stuck on some hills that he can make it up when his sister is in with him. The right wheel (opposite the side he's sitting on) always spins first. So, I'm contemplating some more mods.

I'm really not too excited about trying to run it in parallel, being the speeds will be crazy at 24 volts. The current in everything will also double. Limiting the pedal travel sounds so cheesy, but maybe I'll give it a try. Or, try locking the wheels to the axle?

I'm still searching for a couple things. I'm hoping to find some free 6" rider front wheels, and then I'll buy some rubber tires for it. That should make a big difference.

I'd still really like to get 4wd on this one. Still haven't found reasonably priced gearboxes. And still not looking forward to hacking up that front axle and rebuilding it to make it work either!
Go to Top of Page

treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:37:10  Show Profile
What you need are some real low RPM motors. Then running at 24v won't be a problem. Maybe something like this.

http://www.meci.com/product_info.php/products_id/4200572
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2007 :  10:06:13  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I've been looking for some nice rubber tires for a while.... thinking about picking up a set of these... I think these should look good on there?


42 KB

Still searching for some really cheap wheels though!

Edited by - swhenrik on 09/11/2007 10:58:16
Go to Top of Page

Grant
Senior Modder

Brisbane
Queensland
Australia



1820 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2007 :  21:05:14  Show Profile  Visit Grant's Homepage
That is a very impressive build. That pedal is a work of art.

Did you end up using the CT-302S9 controller? That model is designed for motors up to 250 Watts , one of the features is current limiting so it will not allow more than 10.5amps to the motor. This means that wired in parallel it is possible that the motors won’t run at their top speed even with the throttle at maximum.

I am currently seeing the same effect with the gaucho which is running a 24volt 350watt scooter controller. Since the Gaucho motors can draw up to 230Watts (19amps) each at 12volts, the controller does not seem to be supplying enough power to each motor when running in parallel. As a result the Gaucho seems to be running at about the same speed as it did on 18volts. Running the motors in Series seems to have no affect, if anything it seems a little faster than stock.

I have also added a separate brake pedal however I did not use the controllers brake feature at all instead using a SPDT relay to break the circuit between the controller and the motors and shorting the motors.




http://www.youtube.com/GauchoDrift
Go to Top of Page

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/12/2007 :  07:07:23  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Grant,

Thanks for the compliment.

The 302-S9 is actually running in our Bigfoot. It's 4wd, 2 sets of gearboxes in parallel, the sets in series with each other, so 12 volts to each. I haven't noticed any current limiting issues, seems the same speed as when it was 2wd (and 12 volt). In fact the front gearboxes are from a 6v lamborghini and seem to pull harder then the stock rears, so possibly more then twice the current is possible. Jumping on the throttle will still make it take off quite fast. Spinning all 4 tires does happen on hills, etc. No brakes on it yet, though the pedal is mounted and ready for me to decide a direction to take.

So... I'm surprised you are seeing current limit issues.... I'm gonna take a read through your post again, but I wonder if your relay or wiring is limiting the current or adding resistance. Maybe add a bypass circuit like unaclocker did? http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2924

EDIT... according to TNS Scooters, the 10.5 amps is a "continuous" rating, 30 amps is the max.

Hey... now that I'm looking at specs... there's a conversion efficiency listed too, at 95%.

This Jeep is running a 1505, a little higher current rating, and it has built in brakes. I'm thinking I'll do 4wd on the Jeep some time soon, so we'll see how that combo works also.

Bubba.... sounds like a nice build. Start a new thread in this section for your buildup with all the details. If you start a new thread, you can just copy and paste everything from your post here so you don't have to type it again.

Edited by - swhenrik on 09/12/2007 07:30:41
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 2 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Next Page
 Forum Locked
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
 Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.05