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swhenrik
Moderator



Pengilly
MN
USA

4067 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  15:02:02  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
OK, I'm at it again... I want to combine more info into one easy to find, easy to link to, easy to READ thread. I may move this to the FAQ's later, but I'll leave it here in Motors/Gearing/Drivetrain for now.

If you have anything to add, PLEASE do, but no questions in this thread. I will clean up things as needed to keep reading easier.

Edited by - swhenrik on 02/26/2008 10:54:43

swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  15:05:15  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
First is some info that was originally posted by Jamesonsdad:

Break-in
For best results, PMDC motors should be broken-in. This allows the brushes to form concave surfaces around the commutator, maximizing contact area. It also helps remove any sharp edges on the commutator that may have been left during the manufacturing process.
We recommend breaking in motors using water. Connect wires to the motor and place the motor in a jar of water. Run the motor at 3 volts (or just enough to get it spinning slowly). Stop running the motor after 15 minutes or when the water turns black. Pull the motor out of the water, dry the motor (with shop air or "buggy blast"), and lubricate the bearings with a drop of oil.
Your motor is now ready to run at its maximum potential. Break-in must be done before the motor is run at full voltage This is especially useful if the motor will be over-volted.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  15:09:38  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Next issue... what oil to use.

Marvel Mystery Oil was one recommendation.
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

Motor oil made for R/C electric motors is available at most hobby stores.

Easygo pointed out the WD-40 isn't actually a lubricant.
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TiddlerRacer
Senior Modder

Adrian
MI
USA



1849 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  15:22:32  Show Profile
Put me in the "WD-40 sux for a lube" category. I killed a couple DCM-231's via pinion shaft bushing seizure. After that I switched to straight 30Wt and have not had a bushing related failure since.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  15:25:20  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Thanks Tiddler.... I was reading through a bunch of your previous posts while scrounging for info, trying to decide what to post or not. Anything else you have to add, please do.

Quote myself here (from a previous thread regarding WD-40 use):
quote:
I've actually had nothing but bad experiences with WD-40 in electric motors. Don't get me wrong, I love WD-40 for just about everything else. Seems it may coat the brushes and comm, and does not transfer electricity very well, then the electricity has to "burn" through the coating, tearing up the brushes.

Everything I've read is to use a motor cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, then apply a single drop of oil to each end bell bearing/bushing, taking extreme care to not get the oil on the brushes or comm.

I wondered if part of the benefit of the water break in is to prevent the brushes from bouncing until the comm is smoothed out, or as a semi-conducting medium between the brush and comm to not cause arcs.

Projects: Jeep, Bigfoot, Lil' Quad, Dora Quad, Dirt Grinder, Nascar, Intro, Ultimate Gaucho
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jasncab
Forum Admin

Phoenix
AZ
USA



1119 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  18:16:53  Show Profile  Visit jasncab's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by TiddlerRacer

Put me in the "WD-40 sux for a lube" category. I killed a couple DCM-231's via pinion shaft bushing seizure. After that I switched to straight 30Wt and have not had a bushing related failure since.



I concur. After years of RC Car racing as a kid and now into powerwheels (somewhat into?) I like WD40 to displace water (W = Water, D = Displacement, 40 = try #40) such as preventing rust in exposed metal, coating my shovel after each use etc.

For Powerwheels motors I use an electric motor oil from Ace. It comes with an extendable tube in the neck with a red tip - cant miss it. It is similar to Martins Mystery Lube, but I would probably rate it a 10W rather than a 30W. That being said - it hasnt collected dirt like the others and I simply put a drop on each end of the motor shaft where it meets the casing (on or near the bushing).

Is this what we are looking for in these FAQs? I am new to this whole thing...

*I work here - but don't tell your wife - she will kill me.
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nikg
Journeyman Modder


NC



490 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  19:09:16  Show Profile
I do not have buggy blast. I have a compressor but I only have hoses and nail guns for it. When you say shop air, are you referring to compressed air? Do I just get one of those kits that has a tire inflator attachment along with other attachments (one of which I think is a straight out air blaster)
What PSI should I blast it dry with? How do you know when it is dry inside? Could I possibly ask any more annoying questions?
Sorry, I've always wanted to break in motors and just want to do it the right way.

I've always wondered why manufacturers don't do it? I can understand on a $3 motor, but why not for the expensive RC motors? Same question about form charging NIMH packs. I guess it just takes too much time, but it would ensure better performing products.

"Modding--less expensive than drinking, and you won't lose your family because of it." (Well, the kids anyway)
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Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 12/12/2007 :  05:21:23  Show Profile
I agree about the WD-40. Tiddler is right about the water displacement. The forty comes from the fact that it took them forty times to get the formula they way they wanted it. I also use it as a rust inhibitor and not so much a lubricant. I will use it to lube door hinges because it smells better than PB Blaster.

Excellent.
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HobbyMasters
Senior Modder

Red Bank
NJ
USA



1349 Posts

Posted - 12/12/2007 :  06:22:00  Show Profile  Visit HobbyMasters's Homepage
Ever hobby store carries a light machine oil used to lubricate model train motors. It is perfect for PW motors too.

Don't do your break-in in a glass. The pinion gear can break it. Use thick plastic.

HobbyMasters is the largest official Power Wheels Service Center
Saving the world one Power Wheels at a time.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 12/12/2007 :  08:35:59  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Jasncab, this is exactly what I am looking for. I'm trying to pool together as much info as possible, then try to condense it to be easy to read. I plan on deleting all questions (nothing personal) and keep it just info. Any info added by other member's, I'll leave in their post or credit them, but I may edit posts to make it smaller/shorter. I'm NOT an expert in all these area (actually, I'm not an expert in ANY area )

Projects: Jeep, Bigfoot, Lil' Quad, Dora Quad, Dirt Grinder, Nascar, Intro, Ultimate Gaucho
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greatdane
Expert Modder

Northwest
IN
USA

737 Posts

Posted - 12/13/2007 :  19:04:32  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by nikg

I do not have buggy blast. I have a compressor but I only have hoses and nail guns for it. When you say shop air, are you referring to compressed air? Do I just get one of those kits that has a tire inflator attachment along with other attachments (one of which I think is a straight out air blaster)
What PSI should I blast it dry with? How do you know when it is dry inside? Could I possibly ask any more annoying questions?
Sorry, I've always wanted to break in motors and just want to do it the right way.

I've always wondered why manufacturers don't do it? I can understand on a $3 motor, but why not for the expensive RC motors? Same question about form charging NIMH packs. I guess it just takes too much time, but it would ensure better performing products.


Buggy Blast is more like brake cleaner and degreaser/cleaner, not compressed air. I use electronics cleaner or buggy blast to clean the old grease/dirt out of motors, then 120 psi air to blast out the dirt or water out of the motor, then some high viscosity synthetic bike chain lube (I just happen to have several bottles of this called cross country)on the end bushings or SAE 30 weight oil.

I would bet with all the different opinions on the motor break in theories and depending on which direction they are to be run, they leave it to the end user.
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wickedways
Moderator

Northbridge
MA
USA



756 Posts

Posted - 01/07/2008 :  23:01:03  Show Profile
I have used this oil many years ago, and did not like it one bit. I have never used it on motors however, but one thing I do remember is that over time it becomes gummy, and it collects every dust imagineable.

I use this PTFE lubricant from radioshack called Precision Oiler. It supposely has a precision tip for those hard to reach areas, highly unlikely the case. For less than $4, made for electronics, motors, marine etc.. safe on plastics and it won't wash off. It's great stuff!

"Saving the landfills, one Power Wheels at a time."
XPWMNE Club President
'98 PW Jeep (not updated)
PW/Peg Jeep Wheelie (not updated)

Edited by - wickedways on 01/07/2008 23:33:03
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Bryant
New Member

Opelika
Alabama
USA



11 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2008 :  07:29:59  Show Profile

Great thread. Everyone is right about WD40 about not being a good lubricant, but it is great for cleaning as well as displacing water. You can clean your motor with it, then blow it off with air... and even clean your hands with it. It does leave a slightly oily residue but not bad at all if you use a rag (talking about your hands.) I always used regular 30W combustion motor oil for fan motors etc. and it worked great, but I honestly have never tried it on a little DC motor..... don't see what the difference would be though. I suppose the "electric motor oil" would be ideal though.
I have never heard of "buggy blast" but what I call "Contact cleaner" is designed to remove carbon build-up from electrical contacts etc. and it would work great on a DC motor to clean up the armature (the rotating part the brushes ride on.) After the brushes wear some, carbon deposites often form on the armature and the contact cleaner does a pretty fair job of removing them. One note of caution though.... contact cleaner will "eat" some types of plastic, so I would be very careful not to get it on the body of the vehicle or gearbox. It dries almost immediately on contact though, so unless you went ballistic and used a quarter of the can, at once, at best the damage to the plastic would be cosmetic if some were to get on there.


Bryant
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