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swhenrik
Moderator



Pengilly
MN
USA

4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:39:58  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage


I have a video up on youtube:

Edited by - swhenrik on 10/13/2008 10:53:09

colinandmylesmom
Senior Modder



USA



2351 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:42:12  Show Profile
Those are some monster wheels!

Colin's toys:
1 Sport Tracker Quad Super 6V
1 Enforcer Jr (12V Mod)
2 Jeep Wranglers 12V
1 Silverado 12V
1 Extreme Machine 12V
2 Ninja Quad 12V
1 Perego Gator 12V
1 Perego Gaucho 12V
1 Kidtrax Fire Engine 12V
1 CAT Dumptruck
1 Hummer H2
1 Ford 4X4 Off-Road

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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:48:58  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
When we got the Bigfoot, one gearbox was clicking. The Pink little single seater one wheel drive Jeep gave up it's gearbox to replace the clicking one. In the process, I noticed some binding, when pushing in on the wheel (side loading it), the bottom of the gearbox would move sideways, and cause it to bind. So, some spacers cut from hose hold the boxes out at the bottom:




51.78 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:52:45  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I've wanted to do a 4x4 powerwheels since I was a kid (a LONG time ago!!). Doing 4x4 on the Jeep would be a big project, so the Bigfoot is going under the scalpel.

The gearboxes were "borrowed" from the Pink Lamborghini.... some day I'll probably have to put something back in there.

Remembering a few tips from others on here, a little dremel work on the "stops" on the gearbox made them fit:




64.18 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  19:58:33  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I didn't zip-tie them, they seem to be staying put just fine. If I run into problems, I guess I'll do something else.

Here's a pic of the underside, all together. Keep in mind, the steering stem is out, it doesn't actually steer that sharp.




48.64 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:05:17  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
The whole thing needed to be rewired the way "I" wanted it... Right motors in parallel with each other. Left motors in parallel with each other. Right and left in series with each other. This way if balancing on 2 opposite corners, it will still actually go! Stock forward/reverse switch is still forward reverse. But the stock high/low switch now disconnects the front motors..... more on that later.

But.... I have this scooter speed control sitting right here, along with a twist throttle.... I can't just let it sit there! So, to work I go!

I tore the throttle apart to see how it works. Pretty simple, a magnet mounted on the part that turns, and a sensor by it. I could remount it.... but I decided to just modify the mount instead. I cut the "grip" in half, the part that turns. I could then pass a pipe all the way through, and mount it like so:




49.3 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:10:39  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I got ahead of myself with the pics....

The throttle pedal.... I put too much effort into the last one, I didn't want to do that again! This time it is literally a string pulling the twist throttle. No pics of the bottom side, but there's not much too it. The screw into the bottom of the pedal, I put in a longer screw, with a string tied to the end of the screw. That's it!

On the twist grip itself, I wrapped the string around it, and put a hose clamp over the string. That way I can adjust the string length without having to retie it every time.

Here's a typical pic from the cheap camera:




25.45 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:13:47  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I wired up everything to hang from the body, mounted the ESC under the dash, short wires to the switches, etc. The wires from the pedal, and the wires TO the motors, are the only connections between the body and chassis. I left these long enough to pull the body off.

Part way through the wiring process.....




61.11 KB
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Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:22:37  Show Profile
Wow, you must be really busy lately with all of your projects.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:28:39  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Again, I didn't get any "completed" pictures. But again, you really can't tell by looking at it anyway.

I didn't do anything for brakes yet, figured I'd see how it does, hope it isn't as fast as the Jeep, and hope the 4 motors will slow it down better.

Well, I think it's actually faster then the Jeep! But the extra motors do help it slow down a little bit. Not sure at this point if I'll tackle brakes, if it will be a seperate pedal, if they will apply when the throttle is fully released, etc.

On the other hand, the controller does restrict over-speeding , just like most electric things do. And letting up part way on the throttle seems to force it to slow down too.

The pedal pushes quite a bit harder then the Jeep with the gearbox. I really though the simpler setup would move too easy. Apparently the "twist" throttle doesn't like getting "pulled down" on!

The stiffer pedal meant less "full throttle" time. It forced my son to push hard to go fast. This was good and bad, good that going "part throttle" is easier then going full throttle, but bad because I think long periods at full throttle would lead to a sore foot!

The 4x4.... is INCREDIBLE!!!! I've read where others have done 4x4, and weren't that crazy about it, or the benefits weren't worth it. I think they are crazy! Burnouts don't excite me, crawling over rocks and trees and piles of dirt is more my goal!!! And these thing it would do!

But, I think I may have a mismatch in the drivetrain somewhere! It's possible a gearbox is different, but I'm guessing it's a motor that is different. Seems the left front wheel is always trying to spin fast, even on flat ground. And when almost stuck, the rear wheels seem like they just don't want to go. I'm guessing it to be the left rear motor is weak, or different. That might be the one I robbed from the one wheel drive Jeep. Hopefully swapping the original Bigfoot motor onto that gearbox will cure it.

Ironically... the 4wd "switch" seems it may have been a total waste of time. The truck is extremely slow in 2wd mode. BUT, and a HUGE BUTT, it's very possible this is directly related to the above issue. In 2wd, only the rears driving, they are in series... if one is weak (or different) will slow the whole thing down. Jumping to 4wd give the previous listed symptoms. I guess I'll have to try it and find out.

Edited by - swhenrik on 10/22/2007 07:35:41
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:31:25  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Finally getting back to the replies.
quote:
Originally posted by colinsmom

Those are some monster wheels!
Those are actually the factory wheels. I think something about the pic just makes them look bigger. I believe they are the same height as all the bigfoots, and F-150's based on the Bigfoot chassis. They are quite a bit smaller then our Jeep wheels, although we do have the "big tire version."

quote:
Originally posted by Batteries Included

Wow, you must be really busy lately with all of your projects.
I started this one this morning. My son test drove it this afternoon. My wife took the kids to a parade, which allowed me to stay concentrated on it.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/14/2007 20:33:38
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Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  20:52:53  Show Profile
So you installed a switch for 2WD and 4WD? I think the reason that it is so slow in 2WD is because the rear is pushing a gearbox set that is not driving.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  21:11:33  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Yep, the switch shuts off power to the front wheels. I wondered too if the front boxes were dragging it down, but I'm guessing that's not the case. I lifted the back and tried pushing it, and the front wheels push VERY easy when the switch is shut off. And the drop in speed is like cutting it in half! Way too much difference IMO.

Another thing I just thought of... I could have a bad wire or connection going to the back wheels, I'll have to check that out before swapping motors around.
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gameboy
Moderator

just north of austin
tx
USA



4796 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2007 :  21:39:26  Show Profile
all i can say is WOW. that thing look like it would be a monster, i guess you put it on the right vehicle.

nice work. i am green with envy.


i dont think i understand how you wired the motors in series with each other and then parallel. do you have a diagram, or a walk thru on how you did it, somtime i catch myself stareing blankly at the computer and (usualy after the catatonic transe passes) about 3-4 minute later i just have to give up.



free is always better


beatle
Fisher-Price Lil Kawasaki
small motor cycle
old ninja super shock
old jeep wrangler 18v
old old fp sports car, broke-needs a gearbox, so if you have one i would like it.
old ninja quad 18v
2extreme machines 18v
gator
yellow goucho
escalade
brand new jeepster 800 watts
razor e-300

and yes this is becoming a problem. wife has threatened divorce.-- she'll come around.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/15/2007 :  20:06:08  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Yep, I have a diagram all drawn up already. But it's at work, and I'm at home, so I'll upload it tomorrow. I'll have to make sure it's the same as what I did first though..... I occasionaly draw something before I do it, but I usually draw it up after LOL. Even when I have a drawing/diagram, it's not in my hand while building/wiring. I did all the connections, including to the scooter controller, from memory.
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N8BIG
New Member

Allendale
Michigan
USA

17 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2007 :  13:27:34  Show Profile
SWEET TRUCK!!!!!!
wish I had that one to build...


I made a 4wheel drive unibody Jeep, and with the fronts not hooked up they are kinda stiff to spin... So I did not try it 2wheel drive... I have all four of mine hooked up in parallel... I am using 4 30 amp realys to run mine. Switching the + & - with 2 relays a piece. Mine works GREAT!!! It is insane.

Just my .02

Carry on with the build!!!



1 Modified Jeep Power Wheels 4X4
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jongscx
Journeyman Modder

athens
ga
USA

119 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2007 :  15:14:47  Show Profile
can you hook up so it's the 2 front wheels that drive it in 2WD and see if it has the same problem with the speed loss?

---------------------
if it aint broke... you didn't mod it enough

If you're reassembling something and a part doesn't fit, find a bigger hammer.
If that part breaks, then you know it was due to be replaced anyway.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  07:51:25  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I can switch it to 4wd and just unplug the wires from the rear for testing... maybe I'll do that. I only looked at it for a couple more seconds, wiring looks fine, I'm gonna have to guess it's a difference in motors causing the different wheel speeds. If I turn the right front wheel, the right rear wheel turns about the same speed. If I turn the left front wheel, the left rear wheel turns slow. Really seems like mismatched motors. Maybe a super 6 volt slipped in there somewhere? Tempting to get 4 new gearboxes, and put these back in the vehicles they were "borrowed" from!
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  08:16:52  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
The 4wd wiring diagram.... This is running a 24 volt scooter controller, so I needed to run motors in series to keep the speeds reasonable. I picked which motors are in series and parallel that I think gives the best off-road abilities, without sacrificing steer-ability. The controller and all the switches are mounted up front. 3 wires run to the rear of the truck: A red, a black, and a blue. The single blue wire is the "middle" of the motors, and the front and rear are tied together (hard wired in parallel) to prevent being being stuck when, for example, the L.F. and R.R. tire are in the air.




34.91 KB

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/19/2007 08:29:03
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  09:37:35  Show Profile
How much life are you getting out of those 7.2AH batteries? The reason I ask is because I am also going to 24v with a scooter controller and I am torn as to which battery combination to use.

The 12v 7.2ah will fit the battery compartment with no cutting while the 12v 12ah batteries would require some trimming. The 12v 10ah batteries would have been a perfect fit and a happy ah medium but for some reason Gruber has them priced at $29.00 each and I can't bring myself to pay twice as much for batteries just to avoid cutting a little bit of plastic.

I will be running lights (mostly LED's), a horn and powered speakers off of the first battery so I think I am stuck with cutting or building a custom battery box under the body (under the seat area in a metal frame jeep) but I keep hoping some other solution will magically appear.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  11:31:15  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I ordered the 7.2 AH batt's from Gruber, they actually sent me a different brand (Universal Battery?), and they are 8 AH.

The life of the batteries isn't a concern with any of my setups. Everything is running the batteries in series, but also running the motors in series, so the run time is the same as two batt's in parallel (16 AH). The batt's were run in the Jeep for a while, then the 4x4 Bigfoot, then back to the Jeep, probably a good couple hours total, and they were starting to slow down. Pretty good in my opinion. Once the Bigfoot and Jeep have their own sets, I don't think it will be a concern.

I would never buy the 10AH ones, I'd rather get the 12's or double up the 7.2's. The 7.2's are $10.99, or about $1.53 per AH. The 12AH ones are $18.00, or $1.50 per AH, so pretty much the same. The 10Ah ones at $29 is $2.90 per AH!!! And I didn't need the run time, I just wanted to save some money.

Keep in mind, the 7.2AH's are smaller, but only in width. The length and height are the same as the 12AH's... well, close anyway. That's where I have the most problems, is the length.
5.95 x 2.56 x 3.86
5.95 x 3.90 x 3.70

I can actually cram two of the 7.2's under the hood of a unibody Jeep, where the stock battery goes.... one in straight, one in at an angle. But I "wanted" them under the seat. I can also stand the 7.2's on end and drop them in the seperate "pockets" under the hood on the Bigfoot where the 6 volts used to sit, not sure if the 12AH's would fit.

Edited by - swhenrik on 07/19/2007 11:33:53
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  11:48:33  Show Profile
Great point on the motors in serial doubling the AH. That didn't even occur to me. However, I am converting it to 4wd so that will probably nullify any energy savings. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get the larger 12ah batteries and build a battery tray under the body of the jeep (metal frame).

But I'll keep that in mind for any future 2wd projects.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2007 :  12:14:04  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I really don't have any facts to back it up, but my opinion on the power usage of 4wd is that it really isn't much more power then 2wd. You are still pushing around the same amount of weight. The only extra drag is spinning the extra gearboxes, and that's pretty minimal. Where the difference does come in is that the 4wd will GO so many more places, the big loads are climbing hills or over obstacles that the 2wd just won't go.

Still, I wonder if I should have just gotten the 12AH's. The extra battery capactiy isn't that much extra weight compared to the rest of the vehicle and the passengers. In fact, when my son is driving alone, I have a couple old dead batteries that I put in the back of the Jeep for traction....
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:06:25  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
A little update on this project.....

The 12 volt 12Ah batt's will not fit in the battery pockets under the hood without some serious hacking. So they are in the Jeep to stay. The dual 12 volt 8AH's drop right in, one in each pocket.

I started setting up for a seperate brake pedal. It's all mounted, just needs to be wired in, assuming I leave it as a simple single position switch. I haven't come up with a simple way to push one switch first, and then another further down the travel, for a 2 position brake. Anyone have any ideas?

I had a wire come loose last night in a terminal block, and then a couple more as I was trying to fix it. So I'll need to go through and tighten all the screws. That thing won't go anywhere when front wheel drive!
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:24:53  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by swhenrik

A little update on this project.....

The 12 volt 12Ah batt's will not fit in the battery pockets under the hood without some serious hacking. So they are in the Jeep to stay. The dual 12 volt 8AH's drop right in, one in each pocket.

I started setting up for a seperate brake pedal. It's all mounted, just needs to be wired in, assuming I leave it as a simple single position switch. I haven't come up with a simple way to push one switch first, and then another further down the travel, for a 2 position brake. Anyone have any ideas?

I had a wire come loose last night in a terminal block, and then a couple more as I was trying to fix it. So I'll need to go through and tighten all the screws. That thing won't go anywhere when front wheel drive!



For the two switches put a normally closed snap action switch at the top of the pedal. So when the pedal is pressed it releases the switch and closes the first circuit. At rest the pedal would be keeping the switch on in the open position. If you can't find a normally closed switch use a SPDT switch instead and only wire to the normally open side.

Then use a second switch (a traditional normally open snap action) so that when the pedal is pushed all the way down it engages the second braking circuit.

You would just need some sort of protection on the first switch to keep your kid from kicking it. A simple plate that would double as a stop would do.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:34:07  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
The Bigfoot pedals are right out in the open, nothing near them to protect them. Trying to put anything above the pedals would be kicked all the time. A guard would need to be quite large just to reach to the top of the pedal.

I could possibly invert this idea. Put a washer looking something or another on the screw that goes up into the pedal. When the pedal comes up, it would hit this switch. There's plenty of room under the pedal because the twist throttle is mounted above.

One problem with this is that a switch heavy enough to handle the current, has a pretty heavy spring in it. It would take a very stiff spring to push the pedal up hard enough to push this switch. Maybe I could put a lighter spring in the switch?

I really don't want to do any relays either, a switch is so much simpler, and probably a bit more reliable. I have a couple PW throttle switches laying around now.
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  09:51:32  Show Profile
You don't need much power handling for a brake circuit. The stock resistor is only 5 or 10 watts. You should be able to get a 5 to 15 amp snap switch from all electronics pretty cheaply. Snap switches require very little effort to trip.

Then you can run the two switches below the pedal like you talked about. Once facing up that is triggered when the pedal is pushed down all the way. That could be a stock throttle switch.

Have the second switch (the normally closed one) facing down like you talked about. Have a washer at the end of the stock screw that keeps the pedal in place holding the switch tripped (and thus opening the circuit). When the pedal is pushed it would push the washer down and release the switch which would set it back to it's normally closed position.

You could use a stock throttle setup for all of this with just adding the washer and the snap switch. You may want to add a lightweight spring to hold the throttle pedal a little higher than normal so that it is lifted off the stock throttle (brake) switch to help increase the travel distance between the first switch and the second switch being activated.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  10:33:03  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
My pedal setup already has a longer screw in it so it lifts up off the stock switch a ways, so that part will work out good.

You're point about the load on the switch being low, is reinforced by the fact that the first switch will handle the "light" braking. And the 2nd switch being the stock switch is good, cuz it will handle the heavy braking........

Oh no, I just realized something else...... if I'm using this first switch to also disconnect the motors, it DOES need to handle big current. Dang it, you had me excited for a minute there. I could put in a medium duty DPDT switch, connect one pole for the braking and one pole connected to the controller's brake-cut-off circuit, but I don't like the idea of shorting the motors while still connected to the controller output.....

Edited by - swhenrik on 08/17/2007 10:34:26
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  11:16:30  Show Profile
Relay. Say it with me. Relay. LOL.

Or just put a big diode on the shorting wire to protect the controller during the short. I may have to think that one through.
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  12:00:57  Show Profile
How about two stock throttle switches? One pressed by the pedal normally and one pressed by a cam. The cam would allow the one to be pushed first without trying to drive it through the floor.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  12:03:48  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Relays.... NOOOOOOO! LOL.

Cam.... You got a sketch?
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  13:22:24  Show Profile
Excuse the really crap MS paint sketches. Basically the first switch would be pushed down be the cam. You might want to put a flat hinged piece of metal between the cam and the switch plunger to make it easier to make contact without having to go too nuts trying to line it up.

By the time the cam pushes down the first switch, the pedal will just start making contact with the second switch. Pushing the pedal down further will engage the second switch but since the cam on the first switch has reached its peak it will not try pushing that plunger down any further.







Edited by - treebeme on 08/17/2007 13:25:02
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2007 :  20:41:39  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Your diagram was plenty to figure out what you mean. Definitely simpler then anything I came up with! I was thinking about using a flux capacitor, but I'd need a gear drive setup to go with it

I was planning on using rocker switches, but I do have a plunger style laying around also. I think either could work fine, just if I use a rocker, I have to watch clearance so I don't hit the side that needs to come "up."

The truck has gotten a bit more use lately. And the reliability issues are showing up. I guess they circled the problem on the grill for a reason. Anyway, the wires keep falling out of the connectors. Maybe I didn't tighten the screws enough, but I plan on tinning the ends of all the wires and putting them back in.

The mismatched motors are still a slight issue too. I was thinking about swapping the more powerful ones to the rear so it doesn't "pull" around so bad, but I'm getting 3 more from TiddlerRacer and Colinsmom, so maybe I'll hold off.
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Kirky_Turky
Journeyman Modder




148 Posts

Posted - 08/18/2007 :  18:42:55  Show Profile  Click to see Kirky_Turky's MSN Messenger address
i just picked up a big foot today xD it has differnt decals though but man do they look sweet!



WOOT! fun xD
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/20/2007 :  05:26:51  Show Profile
There is a much simplier solution. Just use a stock shifter unit as your brake pedal. It already flips two heavy duty DPDT rocker switches. Just add a spring to return it to the stock position. As for the pedal itself, just buy a rubber brake pedal replacement cover for a real car and bolt it to the plastic shifter arm.
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gameboy
Moderator

just north of austin
tx
USA



4796 Posts

Posted - 08/20/2007 :  06:15:30  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by treebeme

There is a much simplier solution. Just use a stock shifter unit as your brake pedal. It already flips two heavy duty DPDT rocker switches. Just add a spring to return it to the stock position. As for the pedal itself, just buy a rubber brake pedal replacement cover for a real car and bolt it to the plastic shifter arm.



pure genius.




free is always better


beatle
Fisher-Price Lil Kawasaki
small motor cycle
old ninja super shock
old jeep wrangler 18v
old ninja quad 18v
2extreme machines 18v
gator
yellow goucho
brand new jeepster 800 watts
razor e-300
pukka

and yes this is becoming a problem. wife has threatened divorce.-- she'll come around.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 08/20/2007 :  07:28:11  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
No no no... I can't install something that simple... the more complicated the better LOL!!

Seriously, that is a good idea. I don't have a "spare" one of them laying around, but I could pull the one from the uni-body Jeep to reverse-Engineer it.
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treebeme
Advanced Modder

Holtsville
NY
USA



3209 Posts

Posted - 08/20/2007 :  07:55:10  Show Profile
Hobbymasters has some inexpensive units listed on their site.

http://www.hobbymasters.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=659
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swhenrik
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Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  07:24:16  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
Well, I got some more work done to the Bigfoot this weekend. I got 2 gearboxes and Super 6 volt motors from TiddlerRacer (thanks again). One was a 3A gearbox, one was a 3B gearbox, so I moved one motor over to one of my other gearboxes just to make sure everything matched.

The gearboxes in the front are from the Lamborghini.... which are "Super 6 volt" motors.

Everything seems to match a lot better now. No more front tires spinning at take off, and much less pulling the front end around.

And... being it is running four of the Super 6 motors on 12 volts each... it FLIES! If my son goes full throttle, the riding lawnmower will not keep up! He put in quite a few laps on the track.... coming off the jumps it looked like the tires were just about to come off the ground.

Edited by - swhenrik on 10/22/2007 07:38:24
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  07:39:05  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
But.... now for the not so good news.... He was going semi slow when this happened, so the extra speed and 4wd did NOT contribute to it. There's ONE spot on our track where there is a steep edge. It goes from the flat grass, drops down to the track level where it's dug in for a bowl corner. The steepness has gotten worse due to erosion. I'm guessing it to be about a 2 1/2 foot drop.

He was driving on the grass, and suddenly decided to turn to go down that hill. There was nothing I could do to stop him at that point, even a remote kill switch wouldn't have acted fast enough. The front end dropped, front bumper hit the ground, and the rear end came over (front flip). He was still in the truck, but went face first into the dirt, and the roll bar hit him in the back just below his neck.

Now, if he had fallen out of the truck, and was laying flat when it hit him, I wouldn't have been as worried. But image the angle of his body, face down, legs still where they belong, head cranked back as far as it will go, and then the truck impacting his neck as it came over. I honestly can't believe it didn't break his neck!

What actually happened to him was almost nothing.... aside from the mouthful of dirt, he barely had a mark on him. A slightly fat upper lip, chin was a little red, and a scuff mark on his back from the roll bar, and that was it! Reminds me of the movie "unbreakable"

Like I said, I don't blame the speed or 4wd... he just doesn't understand the consequences at 2.5 years old. We plan to teach him more, cut down that spot so it's not so steep, and address any other places that might be an issue. Possibly a helmet. Having a taller roll bar and seat belts would help.
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  07:48:34  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I'm no artist, but I think this fatalgram sums it up:
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steveb
Journeyman Modder

st augustine
fl
USA



398 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  07:52:25  Show Profile
glad to hear your son is o.k.sounds like something my boy would do.
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gameboy
Moderator

just north of austin
tx
USA



4796 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  15:15:37  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by swhenrik

I'm no artist, but I think this fatalgram sums it up:




holy crap, glad he's ok.






free is always better


beatle
2 Fisher-Price Lil Kawasaki
old ninja super shock
old ninja quad 18v
2 extreme machines 18v
2 gators
yellow goucho-fixin to be parts
brand new jeepster 800 watts
razor e-300
pukka

and yes this is becoming a problem. wife has threatened divorce.-- she'll come around.
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Batteries Included
Senior Modder

Deltona
Florida
USA



1474 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  15:53:30  Show Profile
Man I hate those moments when you see you child falling and can't do anything to stop it. Then you have that second to see if they are okay or not.

It's my Little Deuce Coupe...You don't know what I got.
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radarnick
Journeyman Modder

Front Royal
VA
USA



442 Posts

Posted - 09/17/2007 :  19:00:33  Show Profile  Send radarnick a Yahoo! Message
sounds kinda like my son 24volts metal frame jeep rubber tires and a verry steep hill at grandma's house going up hill front tires came off the ground and fliped it over on him thank god not a mark on him than he got mad becouse, I made him go inside for a break (He just thought it was funny)

Friends and family think I'm crazy
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2007 :  07:28:46  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I was thinking that your own child crashing is probably more tramatic for the parent then the child!

He's tipped his Lil' Quad a couple times, ran it into things, etc... never got too upset, just get back on and go.... but this one stuffed his face in the dirt very hard and the truck hitting him in the back to make it worse. He talked about it later, didn't seem too shook up.

He wanted to take the Bigfoot out yesterday (even though it was raining), so that's a good sign. Hopefully he'll just be more careful next time! It sucked cuz he was having a blast before that, and the truck was working SO well.

Edited by - swhenrik on 09/18/2007 07:29:22
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ToysRule
New Member




12 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2007 :  20:27:51  Show Profile
I didn't realize after your first post but the illustration ,wow, man is that scary. I am glad he is ok.

One never stands as tall as when kneeling to help a child
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 09/27/2007 :  13:50:48  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
More updates....

I forgot to mention earlier, I tinned the ends of all the wires, one at a time, and put them back in, making sure the screws were good and tight. No more problems with wires coming out.

New problem... the switch for forward/reverse is acting up. Sometimes my son will stop, and it won't go again. Switch to reverse and that does work, switch to forward again and it's fine again. So, I'm gonna need to do some switch maintenance or put in a different switch.

My son has driven the Bigfoot just a little bit more. He doesn't seem afraid of it. Insert sigh of relief here:

The steep/dangerous spot on the track is now fixed. I picked a nice toasty 80 degree day with crazy humidity to do some manual labor. I can drive UP it with the riding mower now, so it should be fine.

I completely forgot about the brakes... now that it's so fast, I should get on that!
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 10/01/2007 :  08:10:09  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
I eliminated the 2wd/4wd selector switch, even though I never tried it in 2wd with the new motors in the back. I kind of wish I hadn't eliminated it, my son loves getting stuck! A flip of the switch to 4wd and he could drive out... I think he'd love that.

But part of the reason for eliminating it, was to reduce wiring and switches, as I started hooking up the seperate brake pedal. I installed another pedal on the flat plate next to the throttle pedal. I cut a hole under it big enough for a DPDT switch (a PW F/R or High/Low switch). The spring to push the pedal up was plenty to make the switch return.

One side of the DPDT switch does the "brake disconnect" on the 302-S9 controller. The other side of the switch acts like a standard throttle/brake switch, but installed backward to be throttle when the pedal is up, and brake when the pedal is down. I'll have to get a new wiring diagram up for it I guess.

I still haven't set up a multiple stage brake... but figured I'd get something set up for safety until then. And for some reason, the brakes didn't work the one time I tested it. Oops, I bet I used my bad switch!! The one I mentioned being a problem before. So, a little more work to do yet. Once they are working, I may have to play with resistors a little. There's none installed now, so braking my be a bit abrupt, especially with 4wd getting dead shorted!

In the 2nd or 3rd pic I posted, there's a hose clamp around the throttle for adjusting the string. I loosened the string way up in an attempt to limit the throttle. But then the pedal had to move a LONG ways before it started applying ANY throttle. So, I tightened the string back up, and turned the hose clamp so the screw hits the chassis before reaching full throttle, to act as a limit. I'll probably go with 2 hose clamps, one for the string and one for a limit/stop, so I don't have to fight with adjusting both at the same time.

Limiting top speed is important when my son is pulling my daughter around in the little gray Peg-Perego trailer.

After they ran it like that for over an hour straight, I put the batteries on the charger at 4 amps. 3+ hours later, it was still charging! That's at least 12AH out of the 16AH available! But I'm kinda stuck, I can't fit anything bigger in there then the dual 12 volt 8AH's.

Edited by - swhenrik on 10/22/2007 07:54:37
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2007 :  13:20:04  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage



36.48 KB
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swhenrik
Moderator

Pengilly
MN
USA



4067 Posts

Posted - 10/22/2007 :  07:57:46  Show Profile  Visit swhenrik's Homepage
More info.... Super 6 volt motors on 12 volts are FAST, but don't seem to have much more torque then 12 volt motors on 12 volts.

I'm limiting the speed, only slightly, but there's a noticeable reduction in torque. For the most part, it will not spin the tires. When I allow it go to full throttle, there is plenty of torque to spin all 4.

I haven't checked the controller temp after running it, but I think the controller has to work a lot harder when not full throttle.

It's tempting to try to round up four 12 volt motors to keep the speeds down without having to limit throttle.
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