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12vwiz
Expert Modder



Mobile
AL
USA

505 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2010 :  20:15:06  Show Profile
I found this Kid Trax Fire Truck on crag's list a few months ago with all electronics in working order. The body was sun faded to the point it was no longer red.

Here are a few pics the day it was brought home:


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82.55áKB


75.29áKB

Paint prep
After I tore it completely down I prepped it for paint by wet sanding with 800 and 1000 grit sand paper (mainly to put small scratches in the surface to aid in paint adhesion) then I washed the entire body with Simple Green de-greaser and just before painting I wiped each part down with standard house-hold rubbing alcohol to remove any body oils I might have put on it.
I used 3 cans of valspar red and 1 can of valspar yellow


72.29áKB

Then I started putting it all back together. I have a friend in the sign business that gave me some new vinyl for pin striping and windows. The old windows were able to be removed and salvaged for templates. The other stickers (except the 911 in the rear) were removed and placed on my garage refrigerator(after cleaning it)because they will be re applied later in the process. Reinstalling the gray handles, I flipped them 180 degree making the original top the new bottom, letting the original bottom side take a beating from the sun for a while. I also flipped the ladders, the original right side is now the left for the same reason...OCD I know...but it kinda made sense.


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72.79áKB


68.52áKB


REPAIRING THE BUMPERS
The older Kid Trax fire truck came with chrome bumpers and I liked the look. The child that previously drove this one loved hitting walls and bouncing off them, so I had to fix them as well, at the same time I decided to add head light housings.

I turned this

69.91áKB
Into this

67.71áKB

I found these lights at a local auto parts store.

39.11áKB

They came with a regular incandescent style automotive bulbs. I discarded them and installed a Prewired 12v 9 LED board in each.

70.89áKB

To get the housing to fit flush required cutting the original bulb socket housing off and grinding about 1/8" off the top and bottom.

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I added this 1/2" wide automotive trim across the front that I found at the same auto parts store.

39.8áKB

and a little chrome sign tape on the corners.

60.81áKB

72.6áKB

I also thought the wheels were dull and needed a little extra "POW" So I added some red vinyl behind the rims

63.27áKB


77.85áKB

Electrical
I bypassed the drive-train circuit board by replacing it with relays and at the same time kept the stock lights and sounds intact. I added 2 additional LED strobe flasher to an additional 44 LED's(4 to each Red lens on top, 3 to each red lens on the front and eight in the center clear lens). I also added headlights, prewired for taillights and brake lights(still trying to find the stock lenses)and one red LED for cab accent lighting. Remote shut off with time-out LED using this http://www.lightobject.com/1CH-RF-Remote-Control-TxRx-Kit-P109.aspx
and prewired for separate brake pedal to be added later. I mounted all electronics in a new fabricated rear compartment under lock and key. The stock battery compartment with the circuit board now removed allowed me the extra space to put additional batteries for multiple voltage or amp-hour configurations after minor trimming.

Making the rear panel open was fairly easy, I just cut the white protruding part locking the top part in.

50.44áKB

Added a set of locks found at Lowes home center.

49.85áKB
Then added a new stop block and cut a slot for the lock with a jig saw.


69.01áKB


81.95áKB

All locked up!

72.48áKB

The circuit board free battery compartment shown here has a 12v 24a/h setup used for Halloween.

75.81áKB

The finish look


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71.66áKB


69.9áKB


54.26áKB


43.63áKB


circuit board bypass coming soon!

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress

Edited by - 12vwiz on 11/07/2010 20:42:23

AUSSIE DARREN
Journeyman Modder

BRISBANE
QLD
Australia



374 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2010 :  21:04:43  Show Profile
Wow what an amazing restoration, I canĺt believe how well you done up that chrome bumper.
You are truly talented big thumbs up!

"Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass...it's about learning how to dance in the rain."
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sea_stork
Journeyman Modder

Ocean Springs
MS
USA



294 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  08:15:26  Show Profile
AWESOME! How did you fix the chrome bumper?

Dodge Charger Hemi Police Cruiser
Monster Sounds Bigfoot F150
Burgundy Escalade EXT
F150 Monster Traction
MT Yamaha Raptor 700R (3)
Barbie Jammin' Jeep
Barbie Jammin' Jeep reconditioned into a green lifted Jeep (The Bullfrog)
Silver Lil F150 ( 12V)
Firerock Jeep (12v)
Barbie Dune Beetle
Lil Tykes Yellow Hummer H2
Peg Perego Gator 4x2
Step2 Mighty Mac (project)
Peg Perego Gator 4x2 (parts)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
"Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead..."
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jparthum
Senior Modder

(77627) Nederland
Texas
USA



2272 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  08:36:47  Show Profile
Wow, amazing work, Wiz!!!


I'm curious about the chrome fix, and eagerly awaiting the circuit board bypass info as well!



(pics link to threads)

Fast, Reliable, and Cheap... Pick any two.
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Taz11
Advanced Modder

Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ



3739 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  08:45:23  Show Profile
Great job! I did a firetruck for Halloween too.

I would love to see some video if you have any.

How well did the chrome vinyl cover the scrapes? Did you have to sand the bumper before you applied it?


Here's mine if you're interested....http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20166

Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage!

Edited by - Taz11 on 11/08/2010 08:54:37
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SigEp
Journeyman Modder

San Ramon
CA
USA

100 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  10:58:28  Show Profile
Looks great! How did you remove and reinstall the factory stickers? What type of vinyl did you use for the windows?

It's no longer a toy...

Kid Trax Fire Truck - Red
Kid Trax Fire Truck - Yellow
12v Police Tot Rod
Gaucho Grande
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TXLNGHRN
New Member

Round Rock
TX
USA

25 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  11:08:50  Show Profile  Send TXLNGHRN a Yahoo! Message
Dude
How did you get it all the way apart?
I tried on mine last weekend and gave up. Mine had some pretty severe sun damage though and I didn't want to break the fake hoses and the 2 rear lights broke when I tried to remove them.

Great Job! Can you post how you wired it up? I need some ideas for bypassing the circuit board.
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2010 :  20:19:52  Show Profile
Thanks guys!

There was one small cut in the bumper that I was concerned about the vinyl having a problem hiding. I used ABS/PVC pipe glue as a filler, only because it was handy. Then I used 600 and 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out the transition between areas, this took no time at all. I'm no pro at laying this stuff, the only advice I could give someone trying this is to take their sweet time laying the vinyl down, massaging it as you go, to insure no air pockets (and the area and must be super clean), 1 grain of dirt will standout with the chrome.
The photo really doesn't give it justice, it would literally take someone getting on their hands and knees to notice the repair and maybe not even then. I'm 110% happy with the results.

Tazz
I never posted a video on you-tube, but I will try to post something cool after I get the rear lights installed. Thanks

quote:
Originally posted by SigEp

Looks great! How did you remove and reinstall the factory stickers? What type of vinyl did you use for the windows?


?1.The stickers peeled off fairly easy after getting them started with a straight razor and being very careful not to stretch them (thanks to Taz11 for posting this link to help me in reapplying them). http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18884.
I could not find that particular brand glue so I ended up using an Elmers extra strength glue stick found at a local office supply store, seems to work fine.

?2. I'm not sure of the brand name it was automotive grade gloss black. You should be able to find it at any vinyl sign shop.
It's the same stuff they use to make "piss on ford" logos or "I love my Chevy" logos that you see on truck windows.




My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 11/10/2010 :  14:19:37  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by TXLNGHRN

Dude
How did you get it all the way apart?



I started by removing the flush plugs to reveal the screws. I did not bother trying to save the plugs, they are designed for a one time use and would cause more damage to the body trying to dig them out.
I opted for the fast and easy method.


74.73áKB

After removing the screws from the front-top there is a hidden clip directly behind the center clear light lens, mine just snapped up with no problem, but you could flip the toy on it's side and remove the wire housing between the foot pedal and the lights to reveal and release that clip.
With the front cap off would be a good time to note how the front lights are attached. The rear lights are mounted the same way and there are 2 screws hidden under them. I used an old credit card between the light housing and truck body pushing inwards while lifting up the light to release mine without breaking(luck).
When removing the fake hose I used a small paint scraper and pushed in on the back-bottom while lifting up. Once free, I pulled it towards the back of the truck to release the front clip (there are screws under the 2nd and 4th fake hose), then I just removed the other bazillion screws.

BTW:
If you don't own a skew driver, you will wish you did.

12.28áKB

quote:
Originally posted by TXLNGHRN

Dude
Can you post how you wired it up? I need some ideas for bypassing the circuit board.


Before I can post my drawing. I need to know the differences between the old and new style circuit boards. This is the style board that was in mine. It's the older version and has two plugs(1 six pin and 1 Four pin)for low current control.

80.67áKB
If you or any other member owns the newer version and could verify the wire colors and location would help.
This is the best picture I could find of the newer style board and it looks like it has a single 10 pin plug but I cant make out the colors or location of each wire.


98.73áKB

Please post In this order:
1,2,3,4,5
6,7,8,9,10

as viewed looking at the wires with the plug's "locking" clip facing down.

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress

Edited by - 12vwiz on 11/10/2010 14:25:42
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TXLNGHRN
New Member

Round Rock
TX
USA

25 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2010 :  07:07:42  Show Profile  Send TXLNGHRN a Yahoo! Message
I've got the older version like yours.
Thanks!!!
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cmhunt
New Member

Edmonton
AB
Canada



20 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2010 :  10:10:17  Show Profile
Lets see the videos!
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SigEp
Journeyman Modder

San Ramon
CA
USA

100 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2010 :  10:21:21  Show Profile
Hey guys, here is a little better pic of the "newer style" circuit board I just took from my son's firetruck:


82.39 KB

The large red and black wires at the top of the circuit board go to the battery. The four large wires plugged into the black boxes on the circuit board go to the motors. Purple and Yellow go to the left motor, blue and white go to the right motor.

The accessory plug at the bottom left has 9 wires from 3 wire harnesses.

Top row from left to right (numbered by position) are:

1. Pink
2. Pink
3. Gray
4. Purple
5. Brown

Bottom row from left to right (numbered by position are:

6. Black
7. Orange
8. Orange
9. Red

There are 3 harnesses including wires from the following position#s:

1. 1 & 5
2. 2, 3, & 4
3. 6, 7, 8, & 9

I hope this helps! Let me know if you need any additional info.

It's no longer a toy...

Kid Trax Fire Truck - Red
Kid Trax Fire Truck - Yellow
12v Police Tot Rod
Gaucho Grande
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2010 :  09:26:01  Show Profile
Thanks SigEp for that valuable info!!

I felt it was very important to find out this info prior to posting a by-pass drawing. In reading several other threads, they mentioned the wire colors were different on some models. Should you run into that problem doing this...simply revert to Pin # as reference, it will not change, as I will only refer to colors in my drawings.

A color to pin reference:

5.01áKB

Stock switch wiring

87.1áKB
Depending on the style circuit board you have will determine were the switch wires go. Should you need this info for troubleshooting, they are as follows:

version 1 (old style)

4 pin plug, pins:
1 & 3(Key switch)
2 & 4(Stock accessory's)

6 pin plug, pins:
3 & 6(Foot pedal switch)
1,2 & 4 (Shifter switch)

Version 2 (newer style)

10 pin plug, pins:
6 & 7(Stock accessory's)
9 & 10 (Key switch)
1 & 5 (Foot pedal switch)
2, 3, & 4(Shifter switch)


In my opinion, buying a stock (new or used) circuit board to replace a bad one is not an option. That left me with only 3 real choices:
1. A electronic speed controller setup.
2. Change the stock shifter and foot pedal over to a PW setup, this requires cutting and creativity to make them fit. more info here:
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21190
3. Use relays to keep all the stock switches for low current control as originally designed.

If you decide to use option 1 or 2, you can still keep the stock lights and sounds (if they work) by keeping the stock 4 wire key-switch and accessory harness.
Simply cut the plug off and tie both the orange wires together, then take the black - and Red + to a 3 to 5 amp fused 12v source. This is also a easy way to test that circuit.

If you decide to use option 3. After cutting the plugs off, tie the 2 orange and 2 pink wires together. Then take the black - and Red + to a 3 to 5 amp fused 12v source, that leaves you with only 3 wires left, which are now relay 12v+ triggers. Gray/purple/brown represents high/reverse/go. If you wire it this way, you will lose soft start feature but will gain better torque and speed.
Kid Trax or Safety First drive-train circuit board bypass drawing

31.66áKB

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress

Edited by - 12vwiz on 11/30/2010 20:04:16
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Taz11
Advanced Modder

Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ



3739 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2010 :  10:31:18  Show Profile
That diagram needs a sticky!!!!!!

Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage!
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jparthum
Senior Modder

(77627) Nederland
Texas
USA



2272 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2010 :  16:00:47  Show Profile

GREAT CONTRIBUTION WIZ!!!


From the numerous posts I've seen regarding these circuit boards, I think this has been very much needed for a LONG time, and will be very appreciated by many people!



(pics link to threads)

Fast, Reliable, and Cheap... Pick any two.
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blake711
Advanced Modder

Skiatook
OK
USA



2622 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2010 :  16:32:13  Show Profile
Yup impressive but my goodness that is a ton of relays and extra wires. For the cost of the upgrade you can buy a used board. You might as well add in 18v boost with with 12v and 6v charging relay setups.

Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability
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jparthum
Senior Modder

(77627) Nederland
Texas
USA



2272 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2010 :  19:24:03  Show Profile
If you look closely, there's very little extra wiring needed, and most of that can be very small gauge. High current circuits are only needed from the battery to the relays, then to the motors, which is mostly already present. 12V relays can be found for about $4/ea., so that would put the cost around $20, not including the few inches of wire and spade connectors. Plus, what this should provide in addition to a repair, is a pretty significant upgrade in quality and versatility - The drive-train circuit is now isolated from the 12V accessories, so over-volting is now very simple, and the accessories could now be powered by a separate battery (if wanted). Both circuits should be more reliable, more efficient, and safer.

IMO, this is how these circuits should have been designed by the manufacturer. It doesn't seem like it would have added much cost to the vehicle, and I'm sure that any extra parts revenue gained has been greatly over-shadowed by the sales lost due to the reputation for unreliability. But then... maybe I'm thinking long-term when that was never an interest of the company's.



(pics link to threads)

Fast, Reliable, and Cheap... Pick any two.

Edited by - jparthum on 11/14/2010 19:24:35
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lpe350
Apprentice Modder

Mount Sinai
New York
USA

99 Posts

Posted - 11/27/2010 :  18:59:08  Show Profile
Nice restoration! I like it better than new. Very nice work!

http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/userstuff/lpe350/20101120145240_Gauchortnightgood.jpg
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 11/30/2010 :  20:04:27  Show Profile
Thanks guys!

jparthum, a excellent post!!

quote:
Originally posted by blake711

Yup impressive but my goodness that is a ton of relays and extra wires. For the cost of the upgrade you can buy a used board.


I agree, it's about the same price as a used board, but the key word here is "upgrade".

This is the only way to do it and keep the stock low current shifter and foot pedal without using a circuit board. Plus, I like the ability to go 18v should I choose, so a stock junk board was not an option. To use a pw harness and switch set(shifter & foot Pedal) that requires you to be creative to mount them, still requires 1 relay to keep all the factory accessories working. So... in reality you are only talking about four relays which cost about the same or less than a used pw switch set.
I also understand that used pw parts are easily found for some and is a better way to go for them. If that's the case, read this link.
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21190
The title of this thread is... Keep em rollin... I don't care how you do it

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress

Edited by - 12vwiz on 11/30/2010 20:29:58
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ms1120
Senior Modder

M-Town
Georgia
USA



1464 Posts

Posted - 11/30/2010 :  22:30:13  Show Profile
Hey you may have covered this but what is the voltage going to the lights and sounds? Is it 12v or is it reduced in the board?

Fixing things that arent broken...and making them cool
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 12/01/2010 :  11:45:00  Show Profile
ms1120, there are three circuit boards in the fire truck:
1. Drive-train board, located in battery compartment.
2. Audio/light board, located in steering wheel.
3. PA audio board, located behind dash.

The drive-train board(both version pictured above)supplies 12 volts to the audio/light and the PA boards independently. I'm not sure if the audio/light board drops the voltage to the lights themselves, but I am curious. So... I will check that this weekend and edit this post.

Edit:
The audio/light board drops the voltage down to 3 volts. The orange wire is a common B+. The green, yellow and blue are B- flash outputs. triggers.

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress

Edited by - 12vwiz on 12/10/2010 11:16:39
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dRwOOD
New Member


PA

5 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2010 :  21:33:23  Show Profile
OMG, I am so pleased that I found this site. You guys are da bomb!!! I recently got a yellow fire truck just like the one in this thread and just started investigating what the problem may be - it is completely dead. It sat for almost two years and it was given to me for my 2-1/2 yr. old son.
I was hoping to have it running for Xmas just so he could give it a spin before putting it away and hopefully working on it over the winter, the battery seems OK..... let me stop right there - I will be back after I eliminate some of the possible issues that I've seen around this site.
I have a feeling I'll be asking some questions about that wire schematic if I can't get one of the two boards that came with the truck to work.

Well, thanks for the info thus far - I hope I am able to contribute to this forum. I plan to keep photo records of any mods I may decide to make.
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dRwOOD
New Member


PA

5 Posts

Posted - 12/20/2010 :  06:46:31  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by 12vwiz

Thanks SigEp for that valuable info!!

I felt it was very important to find out this info prior to posting a by-pass drawing. In reading several other threads, they mentioned the wire colors were different on some models. Should you run into that problem doing this...simply revert to Pin # as reference, it will not change, as I will only refer to colors in my drawings.

A color to pin reference:

5.01áKB

Stock switch wiring

87.1áKB
Depending on the style circuit board you have will determine were the switch wires go. Should you need this info for troubleshooting, they are as follows:

version 1 (old style)

4 pin plug, pins:
1 & 3(Key switch)
2 & 4(Stock accessory's)

6 pin plug, pins:
3 & 6(Foot pedal switch)
1,2 & 4 (Shifter switch)

Version 2 (newer style)

10 pin plug, pins:
6 & 7(Stock accessory's)
9 & 10 (Key switch)
1 & 5 (Foot pedal switch)
2, 3, & 4(Shifter switch)


In my opinion, buying a stock (new or used) circuit board to replace a bad one is not an option. That left me with only 3 real choices:
1. A electronic speed controller setup.
2. Change the stock shifter and foot pedal over to a PW setup, this requires cutting and creativity to make them fit. more info here:
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21190
3. Use relays to keep all the stock switches for low current control as originally designed.

If you decide to use option 1 or 2, you can still keep the stock lights and sounds (if they work) by keeping the stock 4 wire key-switch and accessory harness.
Simply cut the plug off and tie both the orange wires together, then take the black - and Red + to a 3 to 5 amp fused 12v source. This is also a easy way to test that circuit.

If you decide to use option 3. After cutting the plugs off, tie the 2 orange and 2 pink wires together. Then take the black - and Red + to a 3 to 5 amp fused 12v source, that leaves you with only 3 wires left, which are now relay 12v+ triggers. Gray/purple/brown represents high/reverse/go. If you wire it this way, you will lose soft start feature but will gain better torque and speed.
Kid Trax or Safety First drive-train circuit board bypass drawing

31.66áKB



Are the R1 through R5 relays referenced in your drawing equivelent to this??
http://www.sourcingmap.com/12v-auto-car-power-plug-relay-with-bracket-p-26081.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=usfroogle

If so, here is a nice how it works link for any other laymen out there;
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

If this a dumb question, I apologize as a noobie
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12vwiz
Expert Modder

Mobile
AL
USA



505 Posts

Posted - 12/22/2010 :  14:57:08  Show Profile
Yes,your relay link looks good. I used a standard double pole double throw relay with a 30/40 amp contact rating.

Here is another good how-to link for relays
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

The only dumb question is one never asked.

My first mod - john deer gator On Hold
Peg Gator LHR shifter Wiring diagram
Big Foot - driver relocation In progress
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dRwOOD
New Member


PA

5 Posts

Posted - 12/23/2010 :  06:01:59  Show Profile
Thanks 12vwiz, I was wondering about the various relay configuration options - so thanks for answering that question even before I asked it.

Your link is a lot easier to understand than mine, so I know newbs( including myself) will appreciate that.

I have been unable to work on it since 12/12/10.. it is sitting at my sister-in-laws house and with all the Xmas happenings I've had zero time on hand... very frustrating.

Thanks again, I'll post an update once I make some serious progress on it..

Merry Xmas!!
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