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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
 Posted - 07/21/2010 : 10:28:52
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A basic tutorial on crimping.
Here's the basic tool - I think this one was $8 on sale.
Since this is a 12 gauge wire, we strip it in the "12" slot.
You want only about 1/4" (6mm) of bare wire.
Insert the wire into the crimp. Make sure the insulation on the crimp covers the insulation on the wire.
Note that I've pushed the wire all the way into the crimp, up to the stop.
Now, put the crimp into the color coded slot, and crush down on the crimp as hard as you can. No, harder 
A second hard crimp at the back end to close off the insulation part.
The finished crimp. You shouldn't be able to remove the wire without re-crushing the connector.
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Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
Edited by - gseric69 on 08/26/2010 08:12:22 |
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drew510
Senior Modder
Portland
OR
1079 Posts |
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hypo21
Journeyman Modder
Bangor
PA
USA
477 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 11:37:09
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I have a question... something that seems to fit here...
I will be recieving Power Cell 12v 17ah batteries, What size\color clip shoudl I use for them and, what guage wire should I be using to remove my plugs and add a fuse? I was thinking 12ga, but just wanted to make sure. |
Getting there... This is just too addicting. Love it. |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 12:18:05
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quote:
Originally posted by drew510
Anybody have thoughts on proper use of crimpers with one side having a 'point'? See bad drawing below. When you look at the barrel of a connector, it always has a point where the metal comes together. With my crimper, I put the crush side over that side and the point on the back side, which is solid. My thoughts are that if I used the pointed part on the side that is split, I could just further separate the barrel and make a bad connection.
I put the point where the two parts come together - that's where I want everything crushed together. But my point isn't sharp, it's rounded. |
Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 12:19:06
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quote:
Originally posted by hypo21
I have a question... something that seems to fit here...
I will be recieving Power Cell 12v 17ah batteries, What size\color clip shoudl I use for them and, what guage wire should I be using to remove my plugs and add a fuse? I was thinking 12ga, but just wanted to make sure.
I believe they have NB connectors - Nut and Bolt.
I suspect you'll end up with a ring terminal attached to the end of the wire, and wingnuts to connect it to the battery. |
Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 12:25:23
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quote:
Originally posted by chozian
Your battery will most likely come with either F1 (0.187 inch) or F2 (0.250 inch) terminals. The crimp ends I've found in the larger stores around me have all been for 0.250 inch terminals. Fortunately, they seem to work fine on a battery I have that has F1 terminals. From my personal experience and from what I've gathered from others, the stock wiring on a Power Wheels brand ride on vehicle is 14 gauge. If you don't upgrade all of the wire between the battery and the motors, I don't believe it would be beneficial to use a larger gauge wire for only part of it. The insulation on the crimp ends is color coded to signify the gauge wire that is supported by the crimp end. Yellow is for 10 - 12 gauge. Blue is for 14 - 16 gauge wire. Red is for 18 - 24 gauge wire.
Most of the inline fuse holders that I have seen use either 10 or 12 gauge wire. I know that Radio Shack carries one rated for 30 amps that uses 10 gauge wire. I believe they are around $3 a piece from there.
Radio Shack has the 0.187 terminals - but they're uninsulated, and for 14 gauge wire. 
I end up prying them open wider, crimping them, soldering them, and insulating them with shrinkwrap.
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Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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hypo21
Journeyman Modder
Bangor
PA
USA
477 Posts |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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hypo21
Journeyman Modder
Bangor
PA
USA
477 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 13:23:38
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I did know about not going smaller, but wasn't sure about the other way in this application.
Thanks for all the help guys!!  |
Getting there... This is just too addicting. Love it. |
Edited by - hypo21 on 07/21/2010 13:58:11 |
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dozer
Expert Modder
Milton
Ontario
Canada
789 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 17:06:48
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Just to clear this up for some. The smaller the wire guage # the larger the wire
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Don't think outside the box.
Think outside the sphere that the box is floating in. |
Edited by - gseric69 on 08/26/2010 08:05:00 |
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dozer
Expert Modder
Milton
Ontario
Canada
789 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 17:08:15
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quote:
Originally posted by Divinar
quote:
Originally posted by drew510
Anybody have thoughts on proper use of crimpers with one side having a 'point'? See bad drawing below. When you look at the barrel of a connector, it always has a point where the metal comes together. With my crimper, I put the crush side over that side and the point on the back side, which is solid. My thoughts are that if I used the pointed part on the side that is split, I could just further separate the barrel and make a bad connection.
I put the point where the two parts come together - that's where I want everything crushed together. But my point isn't sharp, it's rounded.
The part of your crimp tool with the point is often for connectors with no insulation.
And if you use to small a wire in a large connector the the crimper will not squish it enough and the wire will pull out.
good idea posting this divinar.
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Don't think outside the box.
Think outside the sphere that the box is floating in. |
Edited by - dozer on 07/21/2010 17:11:00 |
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dozer
Expert Modder
Milton
Ontario
Canada
789 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 17:13:48
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quote:
Originally posted by Divinar
quote:
Originally posted by chozian
Your battery will most likely come with either F1 (0.187 inch) or F2 (0.250 inch) terminals. The crimp ends I've found in the larger stores around me have all been for 0.250 inch terminals. Fortunately, they seem to work fine on a battery I have that has F1 terminals. From my personal experience and from what I've gathered from others, the stock wiring on a Power Wheels brand ride on vehicle is 14 gauge. If you don't upgrade all of the wire between the battery and the motors, I don't believe it would be beneficial to use a larger gauge wire for only part of it. The insulation on the crimp ends is color coded to signify the gauge wire that is supported by the crimp end. Yellow is for 10 - 12 gauge. Blue is for 14 - 16 gauge wire. Red is for 18 - 24 gauge wire.
Most of the inline fuse holders that I have seen use either 10 or 12 gauge wire. I know that Radio Shack carries one rated for 30 amps that uses 10 gauge wire. I believe they are around $3 a piece from there.
Radio Shack has the 0.187 terminals - but they're uninsulated, and for 14 gauge wire.
I end up prying them open wider, crimping them, soldering them, and insulating them with shrinkwrap.
I found large flat spade connectors that slide onto the spades in a pw grey 12v battery. they were at a electronic parts supplier called sayal here in Can. |
Don't think outside the box.
Think outside the sphere that the box is floating in. |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 18:23:34
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I won't go into reposting what has already been said about connectors and sizes and types. That is covered in the Battery Connector Faq HERE.
I will add a little more about types of crimpers I used to work as an electronic tech and all the electronic guys and electricians I knew said the same thing. There is only one type of crimper worth using and its the Klien crimper. After I used one once I never used any other type again. There are copies made by crescent and other manufactures but Klien is well know and liked amongst electricians.
The first photo shows the standard generic combo-striper/crimper on the left, then the klien crimper, then a klien stripper. Strippers are of course personal preference, I like mine tall and skinny top heavy with blond hair. Opps wrong thread. I like the klien on the right. Some like automatic ones it all your own preference just buy a good brand that uses quality materials it will last a long time and work well.
94.75 KB
Below shows a couple different crimps on 12 gauge wire with fully insulated spade connectors and then a butt connector. All the crimps on the left are with the cheap crimper all the crimps on the right are with the klien. The klien is superior in the fact that it lets you apply an enormousness amount more pressure on the crimp making a better mechanical connection between the wire and the connector.
If you do much with crimping and stripping wires its worth the 40 bucks to buy a good crimper and stripper.
Almost forgot there are ratcheting crimpers that are technically the best crimpers but they are outrageously priced for name brands and we don't need mil-spec crimps so its not worth talking bout them.
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Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
Edited by - blake711 on 07/22/2010 05:40:43 |
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dozer
Expert Modder
Milton
Ontario
Canada
789 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 18:49:00
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| yup about time I got one of those. is the channel lock version just as goood |
Don't think outside the box.
Think outside the sphere that the box is floating in. |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 19:27:04
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I haven't used the Channel Lock brand but I have used some of their other tools and they held up well. I know they do make some crimpers and last time I looked at them they were made in the USA so they are probably a safe bet. They are a bit cheaper than the Klien as I recall, I know Irwin/Vice Grip makes some also but I am not sure if they are made in the USA or not. That is a big deal to me simply because they use better steel in American tools.
I will admit I am a tool snob and I also like to stay with one brand when it has served me well over time. So even though the Klien is a bit more expensive I will go with them because I have used them for years. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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John R
New Member
vancouver
BC
Canada
24 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2010 : 20:12:03
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I started off with that 'standard generic combo-striper/crimper' and it really sucks to strip wire with ... and the crimp can easily get messed up...
That one in the middle is the 'only' way to go IMHO.
Its pretty idiot proof because the insulation length fits exactly into the pliers crimp spot... so there is no guessing as to where it should go + you get way more leverage to get that solid crimp.
No need to do a second crimp...no tired hands strippin' n crimpin'
I couldnt bring myself to drop the 40 bucks (can) at home depot... but got a 'generic' version at the flea market for 10, sans tax
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Taz11
Advanced Modder
Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ
3739 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 05:49:07
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I have the ratcheting crimper. It was $80 but I can do anything with it. I use it at work so it was worth the $ to me.
I'll post a pic when I get home to my camera. |
Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage! |
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jfoust
Senior Modder
Atlanta
GA
USA
2419 Posts |
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Taz11
Advanced Modder
Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ
3739 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 06:05:26
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quote:
Originally posted by jfoust
Anyone try the ultra-generic made-in-china Harbor Freight one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html
I need to get some more LEDs and a few other things, so maybe I'll snag this too while I'm at it!
It looks better than the multi crimper. |
Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage! |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 06:49:52
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| I would agree its got to be better than a generic multi crimper because of the extra leverage from the design alone. My guess is the cutting edge will dull quickly if you use it much because of the inferior metals it will be made of. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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jfoust
Senior Modder
Atlanta
GA
USA
2419 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 07:41:17
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I had the same thought... I've been using a generic Radio Shack multi crimper since college (10+ years ago) and I'm sick of it, so I'm trying the HF one. I have a nice Auto Stripper that I like, but I also picked this guy up:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-wire-stripper-with-cutter-98410.html
For $6 it's worth a shot. HF has some surprisingly nice tools considering their price and place of origin. If I was a mechanic or used these things every day, I'd be buying Klein, Snap-On, etc, but for general homeowner use, occasionally wrenching on cars, etc, you can't beat the price. |
Current Fleet:
Super6 Vette, Grave Digger w/ 19T's, Gaucho Grande, Dora Lil Quad, Eliminator w/ 21T's, 12v Harley, Safety 1st C5R
Scrap Pile (email for parts):
High Torque Gaucho, Red PW Jeep |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 08:16:33
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quote:
Originally posted by jfoust
For $6 it's worth a shot. HF has some surprisingly nice tools considering their price and place of origin. If I was a mechanic or used these things every day, I'd be buying Klein, Snap-On, etc, but for general homeowner use, occasionally wrenching on cars, etc, you can't beat the price.
Before choosing a career in IT I worked in auto industry for about 6 years. I love my snap-on tools for sure but can't really justify the cost of buying them for occasional wrenching now.
As with anything you get what you pay for. I bought a cheap set of hole saws at HF a few weeks ago for 10 bucks because I didn't want to spend $90 on some greenlees to make a couple holes in a power wheel. The main bit was crooked strait out of the box and wobbles like a one legged man. Still it got the job done.
Normally I buy the best I can afford because I look at tools as an investment. Someday I will hand these down to my son. A snap-on ratchet and sockets well taken care of will always be of value. Also a lot of it has to do with making a living one time with good tools. You can't afford the down time from junk tools breaking. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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jfoust
Senior Modder
Atlanta
GA
USA
2419 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 09:29:17
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I totally agree Blake! I don't buy Snap-On, etc, but I typically buy Craftsman hand tools. I operate on the same thought as you - they're well built and will last a long time if taken care of, and if they break, I can always swap it out with a new one.
For things like wrenches, screwdrivers, ratchets, etc, I'm all Craftsman, but for a crimper that I'm going to use on occasion, I'll take the $6 cheapie over the $40 Klein or $60 Snap-On... I figure for the little bit I'll use it, it should last forever, but if it does break, I can replace it 6-10 times for the same price as the fancy one! |
Current Fleet:
Super6 Vette, Grave Digger w/ 19T's, Gaucho Grande, Dora Lil Quad, Eliminator w/ 21T's, 12v Harley, Safety 1st C5R
Scrap Pile (email for parts):
High Torque Gaucho, Red PW Jeep |
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John R
New Member
vancouver
BC
Canada
24 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 09:35:55
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quote:
Originally posted by jfoust
I had the same thought... I've been using a generic Radio Shack multi crimper since college (10+ years ago) and I'm sick of it, so I'm trying the HF one. I have a nice Auto Stripper that I like, but I also picked this guy up:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-wire-stripper-with-cutter-98410.html
For $6 it's worth a shot. HF has some surprisingly nice tools considering their price and place of origin. If I was a mechanic or used these things every day, I'd be buying Klein, Snap-On, etc, but for general homeowner use, occasionally wrenching on cars, etc, you can't beat the price.
If you are going to order from there ... get this automatic wire stripper:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-automatic-wire-stripper-42101.html
I used to use that wire stripper on the right too... but once you start using an automatic one, you wont ever go back |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 09:38:25
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quote:
Originally posted by John R
If you are going to order from there ... get this automatic wire stripper:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-automatic-wire-stripper-42101.html
I used to use that wire stripper on the right too... but once you start using an automatic one, you wont ever go back
I love my automatic stripper - but I have to shake it after stripping, half the time the stupid insulation piece flies into the mechanism  |
Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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jfoust
Senior Modder
Atlanta
GA
USA
2419 Posts |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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mshell56118
New Member
44 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 19:20:23
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quote:
Originally posted by jfoust
Anyone try the ultra-generic made-in-china Harbor Freight one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html
I need to get some more LEDs and a few other things, so maybe I'll snag this too while I'm at it!
I use those everyday in my job. They have held up pretty good. they make a nice crimp and a comparable crimp to the kleins or the ratcheting |
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mshell56118
New Member
44 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 19:24:47
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quote:
Originally posted by chozian
Okay, I picked up the Lineman's Pliers and Crimping Tool set at Harbor Freight for $7.99 after my 20% off coupon.
http://www.harborfreight.com/linemans-pliers-and-crimping-tool-36760.html
On the crimping tool, there appears to be 3 uses for it. What are each of these for? The part of the tool at the very top kind of looks like it is for cutting wire, but it is very dull. The part in the middle has half a circle on each side. Then the part at the bottom looks similar to the part on my multi crimper/stripper tool that I use to crimp ends. Yeah, I'm a tool noob.
If necessary, you can zoom into the picture on Harbor Freight's site to see what I am talking about.
top part is for cutting but it is not very good middle is for crimping insulated terminals and the bottom is for uninsulated terminals I have used the bottom on insulated terminals without any problem except for it sometimes cracks the insulation alittle |
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Taz11
Advanced Modder
Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ
3739 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 20:07:50
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Ok, better late than never..... here are the ratching crimpers that I talked about earlier in this thread.
51.14 KB
It comes with 5 adapters to crimp just about anything. It provides very tight crimps. If you do wire work on a regular basis, it's well worth having.
Here are my favorite strippers... TOOLS...we're talking about TOOLS!
42.15 KB
They are Blue Point. I think they were about $8 off the Snap-on truck. Self adjusting..one squeeze, automatic. Great in tight spots. (I'm Still talking TOOLS!) You appreciate these when you have no room to pull on the generic crimper without yanking the wires out of something. |
Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage! |
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Starwriter
Journeyman Modder
Springfield
OR
USA
131 Posts |
Posted - 07/22/2010 : 20:50:00
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quote:
Originally posted by Taz11
Here are my favorite strippers... TOOLS...we're talking about TOOLS!
They are Blue Point. I think they were about $8 off the Snap-on truck.
Yes! These are the ones I use. There are 2 opposing V shaped cutters that cut very nicely with little effort. The nice thing is that when you're under a dash with your back all twisted, you can reach up into the darkness and strip one handed without trying to figure out which notch to put the wire into. However, they don't work well on 10 gauge or really tiny wire, like 22 gauge or something.
$8 ????? You must have bought them MANY years ago. I think now they're up to about $50 or so. I don't remember what I paid for mine, but it was many years ago. Not sure they're worth $50 now, but they are nice. |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2010 : 08:15:03
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quote:
Originally posted by mshell56118
I have used the bottom on insulated terminals without any problem except for it sometimes cracks the insulation a little
An insulated crimp with cracked insulation is an uninsulated crimp!
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Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2010 : 09:13:11
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quote:
$8 ????? You must have bought them MANY years ago. I think now they're up to about $50 or so. I don't remember what I paid for mine, but it was many years ago. Not sure they're worth $50 now, but they are nice.
I was thinking the same thing either he bought them in 1970 or they may have been used. I just found some on ebay starting bid is 35 and new they are 64 from snapon. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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Taz11
Advanced Modder
Bloomsbury (08804)
NJ
3739 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2010 : 10:08:16
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Yeah..bought them about 10 years ago.....must have been a promotion.
I bought two....so I know they were cheap |
Drive it like you stole it!........out of somebody's garbage! |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2010 : 10:31:11
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quote:
Originally posted by Taz11
Yeah..bought them about 10 years ago.....must have been a promotion.
I bought two....so I know they were cheap
Ah yes promotions. Always the first thing I looked at on the snapon truck. Then the recently repoed stuff was next in line. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
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blake711
Advanced Modder
Skiatook
OK
USA
2622 Posts |
Posted - 07/24/2010 : 05:44:01
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| Nothing wrong with being cheap. Heck I wear it as a badge of honor. I did Dave Ramsey about 4 year ago to get out of debt and since then if someone says I am cheap I just smile and say thanks. |
Please sign up at new version of forum at http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/
complexity is the enemy of reliability |
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budule
Journeyman Modder
186 Posts |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2010 : 12:44:35
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OK, I promised a second tutorial using solder...
First, behold a 10 AWG wire, and a 3/16" crimp connector.
The wire will not fit into the connector 
But a pair of pliers will open the throat a bit:
Now the wire lays snugly in the connector:
I didn't take a picture after I crimped the connector closed. It wasn't tight enough to hold, but it did fit more snugly 
After soldering, it's a single, solid mass.
So after scraping off the extra solder, I covered it with a piece of shrink wrap, and attached it to the Grape Gaucho's motor:
Now, let's look at a ring terminal that could have just been crimped:
It would have fit, just like the previous one. But where's the fun in that?
First, we remove the yellow insulation and toss it:
Then, insert the wire into the terminal:
Crimp down hard:
18.62 KB
I used a vice for this so I could take pictures - it actually made things harder, as it behaved like a big heat sink, and made soldering take much longer 
I held the iron on the join, and pushed the solder at the end of the wire - NOT THE IRON ITSELF. When the copper wire got hot enough, the solder suddenly flowed all around and through the wire and crimp like water!
Finished terminal:
And again, scraped clean, covered in heat shrink, and installed in the Grape Gaucho:
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Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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gseric69
Moderator
Red Lion
PA
USA
6315 Posts |
Posted - 08/26/2010 : 07:57:50
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Thanks Divinar, this is a great tutorial.
The only thing I would add is that if you're going to be doing a lot of soldering, I found the Helping Hands tool invaluable.
There are different kinds out there, ranging in price from around $10 to upwards of $50, depeding on the options it has and what it's packaged with. Most have the 2 clamps and a magnifying glass, some have a sponge in the base for cleaning, and some have a holder for a soldering iron. I got mine at Radio Shack for $16 or so. I found the magnifying glass usually got in my way, so I took it off, but I do like the sponge and holder features.
This is the Radio Shack version. This isn't a good photo of it, since the components are not set up in the correct way.
And here are some other versions out there
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36V Peg Perego Apache - Project: Super Power Police Jeep, 18V Metal Frame Jeep - Project: Sarge
Dragon/Craftsman Pickup Hybrid (WIP), 18V John Deere Off Road 4x4 (Gaucho, SOLD!)
12V Lil Jeep, 18V Turbo Sun Jammer Jeep, 12V Super 6 F150 Blue Thunder,
18V Lightning McQueen & 12V Lightning McQueen w/Duratrax Motors (Sold)
18V Green & Blue Ninja Quads w/19T's, 18V Dora Quad with 21T's
12V Harley Bat Bike w/Duratrax Motors, 12V Pink Harley (Future Trike)
Future Builds: 12V Xtreme Machine, 12V PW Fire Truck, 6V Wild Thing Super 6 & Mach 5
RIP: 12V Super 6 Suzuki Quad w/Seperate Brake pedal (Decommissioned/Parted) |
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chozian
Expert Modder
Meridianville
AL (35759)
USA
631 Posts |
Posted - 08/26/2010 : 08:11:07
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quote:
Originally posted by gseric69
Thanks Divinar, this is a great tutorial.
The only thing I would add is that if you're going to be doing a lot of soldering, I found the Helping Hands tool invaluable.
There are different kinds out there, ranging in price from around $10 to upwards of $50, depeding on the options it has and what it's packaged with. Most have the 2 clamps and a magnifying glass, some have a sponge in the base for cleaning, and some have a holder for a soldering iron. I got mine at Radio Shack for $16 or so. I found the magnifying glass usually got in my way, so I took it off, but I do like the sponge and holder features.
This is the Radio Shack version. This isn't a good photo of it, since the components are not set up in the correct way.
I agree. A Helping Hands tool is great thing to have.
Helping Hands - $2.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
Jumbo Helping Hands with LED Lights - $6.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/jumbo-helping-hands-with-led-lights-65779.html
Unfortunately, I got one from eBay for a bit more before I knew I had a local Harbor Freight store.
New Soldering Parts Holder Hobby Vise Helping Hands - $10.94 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Soldering-Parts-Holder-Hobby-Vise-Helping-Hands-/270625094823?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_2666wt_1130
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Chris Hozian
"We may one day have both fame and fortune, and learn that neither is basic for true success and complete happiness." ~The New Era, August 1989, pages 4-5.
12V PW Lightning McQueen @ 18V :: 12V PW Red Harley-Davidson Motorcycle @ 18V :: 12V Peg Jeep Apache @ 18V :: Super 6 PW CAT Tough Loader @ 12V :: Super 6 PW Firerock Jeep Wrangler @ 12V :: Super 6 PW Ford F-150 @ 12V :: 6V PW Dora Get Set Go-Kart @ 12V :: 6V Rand Spider-Man Lil Quad @ 12V :: 6V PW Dora Lil Quad (Sold) :: 12V Dumar Yamaha Raptor 660R Quad :: Super 6 PW Barbie Trail Rider Quad :: 12V Yellow Peg John Deere Worksite Gator :: 12V Green Peg John Deere Worksite Gator :: 12V PW Classic Chrome Harley-Davidson Motorcycle (Sold) :: 12V Little Tikes Hummer H2 (Sold) :: 12V PW Ford Mustang :: 12V PW Chevy Silverado 1500 (Traded) :: 12V PW Barbie Cruisin' Tunes Jeep :: 6V PW Barbie Blitz Lil Wrangler 4x4 Jeep :: 6V PW Hot Wheels Lil Wrangler 4x4 Jeep (Sold) |
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Divinar
Moderator
San Jose 95123
CA
USA
3057 Posts |
Posted - 08/26/2010 : 08:24:52
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quote:
Originally posted by chozian
quote:
Originally posted by gseric69
Thanks Divinar, this is a great tutorial.
The only thing I would add is that if you're going to be doing a lot of soldering, I found the Helping Hands tool invaluable.
There are different kinds out there, ranging in price from around $10 to upwards of $50, depeding on the options it has and what it's packaged with. Most have the 2 clamps and a magnifying glass, some have a sponge in the base for cleaning, and some have a holder for a soldering iron. I got mine at Radio Shack for $16 or so. I found the magnifying glass usually got in my way, so I took it off, but I do like the sponge and holder features.
This is the Radio Shack version. This isn't a good photo of it, since the components are not set up in the correct way.
I agree. A Helping Hands tool is great thing to have.
Yes, I have the Harbor Freight one myself.
And I have two soldering irons - one 15 watt, one 30 or 40 watt (I forget which, and the label is gone )
The 15 watt iron takes forever to heat up 12 or 10 AWG wire |
Escalade (Rubber tires, LED lights, Key switch, Remote Kill, wings. Wings?)
Lil Wrangler (2WD, 12v, Lights), Dora Jeep (Super-6 @ 12v, lights), Jeep Enforcer turned Aftershock (18v, WIP),
Grape Gaucho A151 (24v, scooter controller, WIP)
KFX Quad (Remote Kill), Crushmeister! (Silverado), Limited Edition Jeep (Stock)
Kawasaki Mojave 250 (Stock), PP Gator (Lights), Home Depot Loader, Lightning McQueen (Stock) |
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FAQ - Crimp & Solder Tutorial
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