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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2009 :  05:40:15  Show Profile
Got this goin in the front of a JEEP. It works well I use the guts out of a Futaba 3003 to drive an H bridge from www.robotpower.com This gives me proportional control. and a servo with enough torque to rip your fingers off.


40.05 KB

So many toys so little time.....

Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2009 :  02:24:52  Show Profile



FLY by wire is working! The wheel is a bit floppy in the video but once it has some weight in it gets dampned down quite a bit. I'm still way in the prototype stage. But it works in R/Cmode Just fine. The next up grade is to use a digital servo so I can adjust the end points, gain and speed of the " servo".

Nextstep is to get all the electronics in a dry box and then get a PWM set up fo the throttle. Since both the Throttle/ESC take servo pluse inputs I may do some thing similar with the throttle. Howeve reverse could be an issue.

The overall goal here is to be able to override the car by R/C.
Secondary goals are..
Fly by wire for steering. Done
This will make for a safer experiance. Running into a curb won't = broken or sprained fingers etc.. or at least not from steering wheel jerks.

Proportional throttle. Got several ideas for that but I still need to build up circuits to make it happen. I'm looking to add a slew rate control so you can't easily peel out. Traction is about control.

I have R/C relay switches I'm planning on using to switch from local control to R/C. but which method to use with the throttle is a little iffy at this point.

LONG term goals.. Build a real life cartoon car! Body twists expressive wheels the works.

So many toys so little time.....
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sandkastle
New Member

Riverside
CA
USA



17 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2009 :  11:30:35  Show Profile  Visit sandkastle's Homepage
Awesome!!! I have been working on a similar setup using a wiper motor to steer a Hurricane, and wondered if I could make "steer by wire" work. I thought it might be too far out there, but I'm glad to see someone did it. It gets around having to deal with the original steering linkage for an RC setup, and is just cool. Power wheels with power steering, you gotta love it!

Somebody put it together, let's take it apart...
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HLMDAD
Expert Modder

Apple Valley
Cali
USA



857 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2009 :  12:22:37  Show Profile  Visit HLMDAD's Homepage
sweet! comming along great!

My wife said stop at 10... well 35 and counting.





My new website
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RICKYVB
Senior Modder

TAMPA
FLORIDA
USA

1265 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2009 :  14:27:29  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by HLMDAD

sweet! comming along great!



Wow,I love it but,I would be scarred to have kids around it.
What if one got under it and was tinkering around while the other child was steering.

Maybe you could rig some kinda protection screen around it?
Then I would be back on board!!!

For just grown ups though.
That Thing rocks!!!
I want one.
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2009 :  02:21:44  Show Profile
quote:


Wow,I love it but,I would be scarred to have kids around it.
What if one got under it and was tinkering around while the other child was steering.

Maybe you could rig some kinda protection screen around it?
Then I would be back on board!!!

For just grown ups though.
That Thing rocks!!!
I want one.



I understand/share your concerns. Torque is not some thing it's short on. This is a prototype build. I have like 4 jeeps but this is the only one that is lifted and.... It's mine!..... For the most part there aren't too many pinch points and I want to move the steering rods to the rear so they are less likely to get damaged. I built this one forward for ease of setup and testing. It will be easy enough to flip the parts arround and in that mode it's less likely little fingers will be able to get in the mecanism. Still a guard in the final version I agree is a good idea and it should be pretty easy to impliment. I'm a long way from done with my ideas.
Next I need to work out the throttle controls. I may switch to a different style of motor ESC. The victor I used was just a convient part I had available. It does 9-32V. I have another I'd like to try that I think will be easier to R/C and local control but it has a pretty solid 12V min input. I'll need to setup a switching supply for it.

The design goals for the Throttle...

Switchable R/C to local control.

PWM control at the pedal but I think I'm going to do a custom steering wheel that will require 2 hands to operate.( I know the pilot I'm building for ;) ....

elctronic speed limiting.

My goal is to have a few of these ready for the Hobby Expo in Feb. it could bea whole new class of R/cracing. The fun part is it's at the evergreen fair grounds and there's the horse arena ring next door with all kinds of dirt. It would make a great rally track! Sigh... as if I need another event to manage.

So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2009 :  02:38:56  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by sandkastle

Awesome!!! I have been working on a similar setup using a wiper motor to steer a Hurricane, and wondered if I could make "steer by wire" work. I thought it might be too far out there, but I'm glad to see someone did it. It gets around having to deal with the original steering linkage for an RC setup, and is just cool. Power wheels with power steering, you gotta love it!




So what was your plan for a fly by wire? Did you have a circuit design in mind? I think a windshield wiper motor is probably a better choice than a window lift motor. (In this case I used what I had available.) They are designed for continous motion and they don't have the dampening issues that a window lift motor has. Hmm wonder how good of a drive system they would make? Could be a serious 4x4 rock crawler drive.

So many toys so little time.....
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sandkastle
New Member

Riverside
CA
USA



17 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2009 :  13:59:32  Show Profile  Visit sandkastle's Homepage
quote:
So what was your plan for a fly by wire? Did you have a circuit design in mind? I think a windshield wiper motor is probably a better choice than a window lift motor. (In this case I used what I had available.) They are designed for continous motion and they don't have the dampening issues that a window lift motor has. Hmm wonder how good of a drive system they would make? Could be a serious 4x4 rock crawler drive.


I have a wiper motor from a full size Ford Crown Victoria that I am powering through a pair of solid state relays controlled by the internals of a cheap sevo. With a feedback potentiometer wired up to the servo board, I was able to proportionally control the motor's position with the radio.
The problem I ran into was hooking the wiper motor up to the stock steering shaft in a precise enough way that could handle the torque to twist the stock steering shaft, which I get around by moutning the motor underneath and linking directly to the "tie rod" that connects the front wheels.
I want the jeep to be drivable from inside without disconnecting the RC steering, so I started to consider the drive by wire. My plan is to hook up an additional potentiometer mounted to the steering wheel in parallel with the feedback potentiometer on the steering motor. Then, adjusting this steering potentiometer will cause the servo controller to sense that the motor is not in the correct position, and the motor will be driven to change the feedback potentiometer position to balance out the change induced by the steering potentiometer. We'll see if it works.
How did you set up your circuit? I see the feedback potentiometer on the motor, but how is the steering wheel (and I assume its potentiometer) hooked into the circuit? I'll be able to experiment some more this weekend and I'll let you know what I find.

Somebody put it together, let's take it apart...
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2009 :  03:01:50  Show Profile
quote:


I have a wiper motor from a full size Ford Crown Victoria that I am powering through a pair of solid state relays controlled by the internals of a cheap sevo.


Basically what I did. What part did you use for the relays? it may be a cheaper option that my H bridge. OTOH the bridge has some other nice safety features.

quote:
The problem I ran into was hooking the wiper motor up to the stock steering shaft in a precise enough way that could handle the torque to twist the stock steering shaft, which I get around by moutning the motor underneath and linking directly to the "tie rod" that connects the front wheels.


Part of they way I monted the feed back pot allows me to mechanically center the arm where I need it for a rough setting if you will. From there I can both center the wheels by the radio settings and a POT on the steering wheel controller. The shaft I modified. It's been knurled. The arm is a compression fitting unit I fabricated. Next time I will spline the shaft or key it. In fact I may key this one. The teen and the 4 YO were playing bumper cars. The steering got adjusted on the motor shaft. Since I totally rebuild thefront end I was able tomake all the parts work in the same arc. the arms swing on a 1.5" radius and so does the driver arm. OTOH I used 1/4" ball joints so it isn't an issue. I think I have some assembly pics of it out side of the Jeep when I was testing. I should dig those up.

quote:
I want the jeep to be drivable from inside without disconnecting the RC steering, so I started to consider the drive by wire. My plan is to hook up an additional potentiometer mounted to the steering wheel in parallel with the feedback potentiometer on the steering motor. Then, adjusting this steering potentiometer will cause the servo controller to sense that the motor is not in the correct position, and the motor will be driven to change the feedback potentiometer position to balance out the change induced by the steering potentiometer. We'll see if it works.


I think it will. You may need to add some trim pots to make it work well. How do you plan on switching between R/C and local control?


" How did you set up your circuit?"

I have the same basic motor servo gut hack you do. The steering wheel is feed in to a 50K pot on a 555 pulse generator. Switching between R/C and local control will be jsut a matter of switching the signal from the radio to the pulse Generator. The pulse generator has a centering POT also. So I have 2 ways of centering the fron wheels.

Another option I had considered was building a switching system in the steering wheel assembly. 2 switches with a spring center. The switches would activate the corasponding input the the H bridge. the reason I didn't go that route was then I would have to have limit switches. That seemed like a failure just waiting to happen. The H bridge I use has self protection built in the half bridge chips. So if the steering slips on the driver and jams it will shut down. The bridge is good for ~12A and has thermal as well as short circuit protection built in the chips. They were designed for automotive applications. Specifically window lift motors. HEHE go figure..

So many toys so little time.....
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sandkastle
New Member

Riverside
CA
USA



17 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2009 :  11:05:47  Show Profile  Visit sandkastle's Homepage
I used two Opto22 DC60S5 solid state relays to control the steering motor based on the input from the servo internals. I got them on Ebay for $12 each, so they are a cheaper option, but they are simple relays without any of the additional features of the H bridge. They will handle 5 amps, which should be enough for the steering motor.

I am hoping to avoid having a seperate pulse generator and just rely on the circuit of the servo. When the steering wheel potentiometer moves from center, hopefully the servo circuit will drive the steering motor to compensate for what it sees as an error in the motor's position. We will see.

Switching between RC and in-car control will be interesting. I plan to use a double pole, double throw switch to remove the steering wheel potentiometer from the circuit, bacsically disabling the in car steering while still allowing RC operation. When the steering wheel potentiometer is back in parallel, the RC will still provide further input, so I'll have to watch limits and that it doesn't steer beyond the usable range. Also, when the second potentiometer is hooked up in parallel I see that it will require more movement of the feedback potentiometer (and motor) to sense that it is in the correct position. I may be able to compensate by setting limits on the controller, but I'll have to watch for exceeding the mechanical limits of the setup. Time will tell, and the only thing left to do is try it.

Somebody put it together, let's take it apart...
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MustangFreak
Senior Modder

San Antonio
Texas
USA



1221 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  01:11:35  Show Profile  Visit MustangFreak's Homepage  Send MustangFreak a Yahoo! Message
Wow... you guys lost me with all your electrical gibberish... but that is definitely really cool. Great job.



I'm not an addict, addicts have the potential to quit.
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  03:11:35  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by sandkastle

I used two Opto22 DC60S5 solid state relays to control the steering motor based on the input from the servo internals. I got them on Ebay for $12 each, so they are a cheaper option, but they are simple relays without any of the additional features of the H bridge. They will handle 5 amps, which should be enough for the steering motor.

I am hoping to avoid having a seperate pulse generator and just rely on the circuit of the servo. When the steering wheel potentiometer moves from center, hopefully the servo circuit will drive the steering motor to compensate for what it sees as an error in the motor's position. We will see.

Switching between RC and in-car control will be interesting. I plan to use a double pole, double throw switch to remove the steering wheel potentiometer from the circuit, bacsically disabling the in car steering while still allowing RC operation. When the steering wheel potentiometer is back in parallel, the RC will still provide further input, so I'll have to watch limits and that it doesn't steer beyond the usable range. Also, when the second potentiometer is hooked up in parallel I see that it will require more movement of the feedback potentiometer (and motor) to sense that it is in the correct position. I may be able to compensate by setting limits on the controller, but I'll have to watch for exceeding the mechanical limits of the setup. Time will tell, and the only thing left to do is try it.



So how are you going to accomplish this with only 2 relays? As far as I can tell they don't do a +/- switch like a half bridge. They are +on and nothing or open off. They are pretty much just on off devices. I could see trying to use 4 in a bridgemode. OTOH they switch kinda slow so ther could be shoot through issues.

So many toys so little time.....
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RICKYVB
Senior Modder

TAMPA
FLORIDA
USA

1265 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  03:32:41  Show Profile
I like this thread.
Has me thinking of a 4 wheel drive,4 wheels steer concept.
Basically,your design x 2.One reversed of course.
Great work,do you have any Video of it in action yet?
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  03:37:32  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by sandkastle



I am hoping to avoid having a seperate pulse generator and just rely on the circuit of the servo. When the steering wheel potentiometer moves from center, hopefully the servo circuit will drive the steering motor to compensate for what it sees as an error in the motor's position. We will see.



I understand what you are trying to do. That's gonna take alot of tweaking to get right. setting up either mode shouln't be hard but switching between them is gonna be a challenge.

So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  03:54:31  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by RICKYVB

I like this thread.
Has me thinking of a 4 wheel drive,4 wheels steer concept.
Basically,your design x 2.One reversed of course.
Great work,do you have any Video of it in action yet?

4WD.4WS is but a smallpart of the bigger picture I'm after! The vehile I want to build will be 2K$ by the time I'm done I'm afraid. I'm already looking for parts for the 4WD part. I'm torn between trying to find the inwheel scooter motors and just getting another set of #19 boxes.

Spin in place( 4 deg of function in the wheels. toe in/toe out on demand both front and rear), combat crawl, Stair crawl.... to get the level of animationI want I'll probably have to put stepper motors in to get the effect I really want. I want the cartoon car! So whe I go rock crawling Iwant to " rock CRAWL ". And then watch looks on the other rc car guys faces....

I'll get some video soon. It'sonly been out 3 times for testing. I live on a hill. With no kid in the seat and an 18AH batery in the front it's like driving on ice. It's just got no traction. I need to relocate the batteries. So next park trip I'll break out the camera..... I still need to finish the pedal system and that has snowballed into other ideas.... sigh.

So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2009 :  04:53:16  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by FjCruiser

Wow... you guys lost me with all your electrical gibberish... but that is definitely really cool. Great job.



Thanks!
So I'm losing an " expert modder " with our "electrical gibberish"... ahh man, just wait till we break out the math! ;P. The gibberish is where it's at! It's all about the gibberish! Hmmm " electrical gibberish " That's almost like hacker "Kung Fu"!

It's all basic EE geek speak. An " H-bridge " is what you need to have electronic F/R control of a DC motor. You have 4 legs of an H with a motor in the midle. One set on each side is positive and one set negative. They turn on opposed to control which way the current flows. (Actually there's a small H-bridge in every servo.) If you can PWM it you get speed control.

/geek speek off/ What I did was basically add a big amplifier to the out put of a servo. Feel free to ask any questions. If I wanted to keep secrets I wouldn't be posting here.

How do those stars and ratings work any way? # of posts or something more practicle? I haven't done a whole lot of Wheelzzz yet but I have some very crazy ideas..4WD is up next. I'm on the prowl for another set of 19T or 16T #7 gear boxes. I think I've found my next doner vehicle.

So far I haven't seen any body come close to any of my ideas. I dunno if it's a budget thing or just skill set. But then I don't do off the shelf usually and I have a shop that will let me do pretty much any thing I can think of. I like my toys!

Toys,Tools and Tinkering!!!! Building toys is what I do for fun.

So many toys so little time.....
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v8280z
Apprentice Modder

Mesa
AZ
USA



91 Posts

Posted - 11/23/2009 :  19:14:20  Show Profile
This is a great mod... Can you make a wiring diagram that will explain how you are doing this?

18v Lamborghini (MP3, Lights, gauges, water cannon)
12v F-150 (super 6 motors, lights, remote kill switch)
12v Jeep (super 6 motors, lights)
12v Lil Quad
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sandkastle
New Member

Riverside
CA
USA



17 Posts

Posted - 11/23/2009 :  22:12:06  Show Profile  Visit sandkastle's Homepage
My trick to only use two relays is that I am using two 12 volt batteries, so one relay hooks one battery up to the steering motor with positive polarity, and the other relay hooks the motor up to the other battery with negative polarity. That part of the system works alright, but I do think the comercially available h bridge is a much cleaner and more reliable setup.

I am (as expected) having trouble tuning it to keep it stable. I can make the motor continuously rotate in either direction via the remote control or the feedback potentiometer, but hooking it up for control is still touchy.

After some playing and trial and error, it appears one of my relays is no longer happy (or functional). Perhaps I should have used a diode to protect it from the reverse voltage when the motor was running off the other relay. Oh well, I'm learning as I go here too. I'll draw up what I did as a "what not to do" and I'd suggest adding diodes to protect the relays from reverse volage.


23.48 KB

Somebody put it together, let's take it apart...

Edited by - sandkastle on 11/23/2009 22:13:32
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/23/2009 :  22:43:06  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by v8280z

This is a great mod... Can you make a wiring diagram that will explain how you are doing this?



yeah. But I'd like to do it in something other than a basic paint program. I'll see what I can do. I seem to be having more and more need to draw up schematic diagrams lately.

So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/23/2009 :  22:56:32  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by sandkastle

My trick to only use two relays is that I am using two 12 volt batteries, so one relay hooks one battery up to the steering motor with positive polarity, and the other relay hooks the motor up to the other battery with negative polarity. That part of the system works alright, but I do think the comercially available h bridge is a much cleaner and more reliable setup.

I am (as expected) having trouble tuning it to keep it stable. I can make the motor continuously rotate in either direction via the remote control or the feedback potentiometer, but hooking it up for control is still touchy.

After some playing and trial and error, it appears one of my relays is no longer happy (or functional). Perhaps I should have used a diode to protect it from the reverse voltage when the motor was running off the other relay. Oh well, I'm learning as I go here too. I'll draw up what I did as a "what not to do" and I'd suggest adding diodes to protect the relays from reverse volage.


23.48 KB



I think the other gotcha with this circuit is what's known as shoot through.
Solid state relays have a finite turn off time. What can happen is one relay hasn't quite shut down all the way before the other turns on. This creates a short circuit condition. Basically the transistors burn out from heat due to over current.

So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/23/2009 :  23:59:20  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by v8280z

This is a great mod... Can you make a wiring diagram that will explain how you are doing this?



Here's what I did..... Use it at your own risk..


31.82 KB

So many toys so little time.....
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v8280z
Apprentice Modder

Mesa
AZ
USA



91 Posts

Posted - 11/24/2009 :  14:25:05  Show Profile
what type of potentiometer are you using? Do you have it mounted directly to the steering wheel?

18v Lamborghini (MP3, Lights, gauges, water cannon)
12v F-150 (super 6 motors, lights, remote kill switch)
12v Jeep (super 6 motors, lights)
12v Lil Quad
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v8280z
Apprentice Modder

Mesa
AZ
USA



91 Posts

Posted - 11/24/2009 :  14:40:15  Show Profile
Thanks for the diagram!! - I get it now, I guess am just a picture person.

I found this bridge for $6 - it doesn't have any specs on it but I thought it may be a cheap part to use for some trial setups before jumping to the $79 board you used. Do you think it is worth bothering with?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PCA-2/SERVO-MOTOR-CONTROLLER/1.html


18v Lamborghini (MP3, Lights, gauges, water cannon)
12v F-150 (super 6 motors, lights, remote kill switch)
12v Jeep (super 6 motors, lights)
12v Lil Quad

Edited by - v8280z on 11/24/2009 14:48:41
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/25/2009 :  02:33:36  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by v8280z

Thanks for the diagram!! - I get it now, I guess am just a picture person.

I found this bridge for $6 - it doesn't have any specs on it but I thought it may be a cheap part to use for some trial setups before jumping to the $79 board you used. Do you think it is worth bothering with?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PCA-2/SERVO-MOTOR-CONTROLLER/1.html



Well first problem is there isn't enough information to even use the thing.

Second I looked up that driver chip. 2A cont. 5A peak. Unless you run a 48V servo it's not going to work.
Now if just want some thing to experiment with then IIRC an L298 would be a good choice. But to drive a winshield motor you'll want a 10A continous rated Fets.
The nice part about the simple H is it's fully protected.

There are other options for the H bridge.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SyRen10.htm should work

Or an OSMC. I'm sure there are a bunch of H bridge designs out there that will work.



So many toys so little time.....
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 11/25/2009 :  02:51:47  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by v8280z

what type of potentiometer are you using? Do you have it mounted directly to the steering wheel?



What I posted was an R/C setup. The pot which was the OEM servo pot I attached to the back of the servo. Any 5K pot should work.

You could also attach a rod tot he steering arm or use the axel as a piviot point.


To go fly by wire local control you need a few extra parts and mods. You'll need to build a pulse generator and it will have an input pot that will neeed to be attached to the steering wheel. If you search servo tester youy come across a bunch of schematics. I had to get through 3 till I found one that will work. I'm tweaking it a bit for control refinement. I'll post it when I get done with it.

That in a nut shell is pretty easy but the hard part is getting it trimmed and adjusting the end points.

So many toys so little time.....
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v8280z
Apprentice Modder

Mesa
AZ
USA



91 Posts

Posted - 12/21/2009 :  22:21:13  Show Profile
quote:
To go fly by wire local control you need a few extra parts and mods. You'll need to build a pulse generator and it will have an input pot that will neeed to be attached to the steering wheel. If you search servo tester youy come across a bunch of schematics. I had to get through 3 till I found one that will work. I'm tweaking it a bit for control refinement. I'll post it when I get done with it.



Have you been able to get the schematic finished? I am really interested in a fly by wire system. I would like to be able to build a system that is fly by wire and also can be switch to RC with a flick of a toggle.

18v Lamborghini (MP3, Lights, gauges, water cannon)
12v F-150 (super 6 motors, lights, remote kill switch)
12v Jeep (super 6 motors, lights)
12v Lil Quad
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Gausswave
Journeyman Modder

Bellevue
WA
USA

128 Posts

Posted - 12/22/2009 :  01:00:08  Show Profile

"Have you been able to get the schematic finished? I am really interested in a fly by wire system. I would like to be able to build a system that is fly by wire and also can be switch to RC with a flick of a toggle."

Sigh... not yet, I started playing with Eagle cad. So I could draw some decent schematics and them have a file I can run in a cam program. This led me back to my CNC mill project so I can rout out my own circuit boards. Vicious circle ya know. I'm now 90% done with the mill and I still need to spend a bit more time with Eagle to try to get it all to work.

I still need to do a PWM driver for the pedal. I got side tracked from this idea of using a modified drill driver. It already genereates a PWM pulse. It also drives a Z44. so actually most of the work has been done. Any way I think I can do better with a 555 timer circuit.

How much of a circuit do you need? Exact parts or just a functional diagram?

So many toys so little time.....
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v8280z
Apprentice Modder

Mesa
AZ
USA



91 Posts

Posted - 12/22/2009 :  21:16:45  Show Profile
Take your time, I am not in a hurry. I am planning to build an aluminum framed, RC controlled, go cart/ ride on but am still just planning it out. I think having a drive-by-wire system would eliminate some of the geometry issues I foresee and allow for a more "creative" way to steer without having to worry about a steering shaft. I also thought it would allow for a more simple way to switch between RC and local control. It is very possible that this system is over my head and skill set but I thought with a schematic and some guidance I would be able to figure it out. Is it more complex than than I am anticipating?

18v Lamborghini (MP3, Lights, gauges, water cannon)
12v F-150 (super 6 motors, lights, remote kill switch)
12v Jeep (super 6 motors, lights)
12v Lil Quad
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