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Jamesonsdad
Journeyman Modder
 
Fayetteville Georgia USA
342 Posts |
Posted - 12/21/2006 : 18:35:21
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Front end sag on unibody Jeeps is often caused by the plastic hole in the front end module wearing where the front axles come up though it. I fixed the problem by fabricating 1/8" metal plates and mounting them on the top surface of the module "arms." The verticle leg of the front axles now bear against the metal plate instead of the plastic module. See pictures:
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I replaced all of the cap nuts with pins by drilling a small hole at the ends of the rods with a sharp drill bit and a vice.
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With the wear fixed, the front end still needed an alignment. This can be done by bending the front axles in the desired direction with the help of a vice and large hammer. It may seem crude but it works great.
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Power Wheels, How bad have you got it?
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Edited by - swhenrik on 10/03/2007 14:59:36 |
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swhenrik
Moderator
    
Pengilly MN USA

4048 Posts |
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swhenrik
Moderator
    
Pengilly MN USA

4048 Posts |
Posted - 03/24/2008 : 07:14:08
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Here's one of my ideas for a steel plate to replace the plastic block. Cut and drill, u-bolt to hold it on, no welding. (shown upside down)

A variation of this could be a simple u-bolt around the spindle and through the stock plastic block to tighten things up a bit. |
Projects: Jeep, Bigfoot, Lil' Quad, Dora Quad, Dirt Grinder, Nascar, Intro |
Edited by - swhenrik on 05/01/2008 15:03:45 |
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gseric69
Moderator
    
Red Lion PA USA

6272 Posts |
Posted - 07/31/2009 : 10:30:10
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Here is Artax's front end fix
"I basically did the sag/alignment fix mashing together some of the ideas I found on here. I started with sandwiching two plates above and below where the front axle fits through the front module but even after that there was still some play so I went a little further and added another plate to the plastic steering part also and U-bolted the front axle, plastic steering part and new steering plate together. I also got rid of the rivet that holds the steering cross bar to the plastic steering pieces and replaced them with 1/4" shoulder bolts and drilled out all the parts to accomodate. With all these modifications and a couple tweaks to the new axles there is NO play and all is straight. Here are a couple pics of the front end modifications from all angles. I could also take some pics of individual parts next time I break it down if requested."




Here is the link to his project http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9895 |
36V Peg Perego Apache - Project: Super Power Police Jeep, 18V Metal Frame Jeep - Project: Sarge Dragon/Craftsman Pickup Hybrid (WIP), 18V John Deere Off Road 4x4 (Gaucho) 12V Lil Jeep, 18V Turbo Sun Jammer Jeep, 12V Super 6 F150 Blue Thunder, 18V Lightning McQueen & 12V Lightning McQueen w/Duratrax Motors (Sold) 18V Green & Blue Ninja Quads w/19T's, 18V Dora Quad with 21T's 12V Harley Bat Bike w/Duratrax Motors, 12V Pink Harley (Future Trike) Future Builds: 12V Xtreme Machine, 12V PW Fire Truck, 6V Wild Thing Super 6 & Mach 5 RIP: 12V Super 6 Suzuki Quad w/Seperate Brake pedal (Decommissioned/Parted) |
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gseric69
Moderator
    
Red Lion PA USA

6272 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2010 : 19:23:15
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And here is another version from dasilva100
"This is what I did with some things I bought at Home Depot (I didn't spend more than $15)"
"I used a metal perforated piece and I cut two 3-hole pieces and four 2-hole pieces. For the three holes pieces I made a hole bigger for the axle using the drill"

I used two 2-hole pieces as washers



"Here is the most important step: the holes to put the screws to fit the upper metal pieces (three-hole), have to be made as close as possible to the outside in order to maintain the axles in a good (to inside) position to reduce the sag."

"Two wire rope clips to maintain this metal piece in place:"

Two more 2-hole pieces as washers for the clips:


Before:

After:

To read more, click here http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15915
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