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Security Advice any one please?

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Printed on: 12/14/2018

Topic:


Topic author: emeritus
Subject: Security Advice any one please?
Posted on: 05/24/2010 01:22:45
Message:

My boys hummer is getting heavier and heavier and with all the mods im planning it wont get any lighter, so daily sometimes at least twice a day he wants a go on it and i live up on the fifth floor.. i have a small shed on the ground floor and id like a way of securing the shed so i can store the car in there, can any one think of an idea short of hiring a sniper to take down these thieving scum?

im looking to put new locks on the shed door any other ideas?

Replies:


Reply author: badcomp
Replied on: 05/24/2010 02:11:33
Message:

Post a picture of the door.
We lived in an appartment complex with comunity storage in the basement. They were a slate style with gaps inbetween each board. The locks were very weak and only attached to the end board. It was a rough unpainted wood construction so I could do what I wanted and the landlord didnt care/didnt know. I added a 2x4 frame to the inside of the door and added a substancial bolt lock I could put a large padlock on. As an added kicker, since I put my tools in there and really didnt want anyone getting in, high and low on the frame I added I drilled a couple 1/2 inch holes through my 2x4s and into the existing door frame. Then I slid in long 1/2 inch bolts. You couldnt see them from the outside of the door and even if they managed to pick the padlock there was no way they would figure out how the door was still secured and there was no way a human was going to kick it in.
On yours it depends on how nice of a structure the storage unit is. If it is really nice and matches the building and is painted you are probably really limited on what you can do because of damage the landlord might say you caused to it. One idea is if it has a normal door lock. A bolt lock for door will install in the same hole. Those are stronger and there is no way they will just slim jim it open.
There are different brands. I only used the Titan/Ultra Security by Kwikset, They have 6 pins for the key instead of the standard 5 pins which are easier to pick.
They also sell little door/window sirens which screach when the door is opened. If you could figure out some way to keep it from going off when you opened the door that might be a deterant.
The other thing is how tough is the door, is it one of those cheap hollow core doors. If so they can just bust a hole in it to get what they want. Aside from mounting a piece of plywood on the inside of the door to keep them from punching through the only other fix I know is to replace it which is probably not cost effective.
Without seeing the door its hard to give any other advice than that.

I just notices that you said it is a shed. So it has a plywood door with a hasp of some sort? I would get a heavier duty hasp and mount it with larger screws with a heavy duty round padlock, the kind designed for storage units. Also replace the hinges and hinge screws with longer and largers ones. If any of the hinge screws are exposed get the kind that are oneway security screws and can only be screwed in but dont have the flat spots on the head to be screwed out.


Reply author: emeritus
Replied on: 05/24/2010 02:32:29
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by badcomp

Post a picture of the door.



Cheers badcomp, i will post a pic including all the fittings as soon as i get home, the lock on there isnt to good as within 3days of me moving in some idiot popped the door open and my Bike was gone.


Reply author: badcomp
Replied on: 05/24/2010 02:40:34
Message:

Even with all the work I did on mine I still managed to fail. There was an opening at the top, over 7ft high. It didnt occur to me when I did all the security stuff that someone standing on a chair could just reach over. Some worthless person did just that and pulled out our empty samsonite luggage off a shelf that was in there a couple of feet in. I was SO PISSED!!! I had renters insurance which covered a little of it but I was out about $500 bucks for deductible. That was 10 years ago and it still gets me steamed.


Reply author: hootienchyna
Replied on: 05/24/2010 04:48:04
Message:

after you get the locking down all set you should also get one of these inside the shed door and keep the speaker nearby


Reply author: dozer
Replied on: 05/24/2010 04:48:06
Message:

chip away some of the concrete and put an eye bolt into the concrete or lag bolt some chain to the floor, or an available plumbing pipe. Then use a bicycle lock around the axle. That's how guys with motorcycles do it in they're sheds.

at the end of the day if someone really wants it you can't stop em


Reply author: Mama
Replied on: 05/24/2010 05:30:11
Message:

You could just add a car alarm to your H2. Some of the Kid Trax vettes already have them...they go off if the vehicle is moved.


Reply author: jfoust
Replied on: 05/24/2010 06:10:39
Message:

This is what I was thinking about doing to secure my Jet Ski when it's on the trailer and not in use... Don't know if your apartment would let you do it, but darn if it isn't effective!

http://www.yanchor.com/index.html


Reply author: dozer
Replied on: 05/24/2010 10:20:09
Message:

That looks awsome, better than tripping over an eye bolt. But if someone really wants it they can just cut the axle and replace it. It sucks that there are people like that.
I new a guy once that had a really expensive bicycle. He spray painted it black and made it look like crap, no one touched it.

quote:
Originally posted by jfoust

This is what I was thinking about doing to secure my Jet Ski when it's on the trailer and not in use... Don't know if your apartment would let you do it, but darn if it isn't effective!

http://www.yanchor.com/index.html


Reply author: emeritus
Replied on: 05/24/2010 11:32:20
Message:

As promised ive got the pics up so more ideas would be great..



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and apart from my son and the ones close to me, this is my pride and joy which i would like to store in the shed as at the moment its out in all the elements lol..its insured, police tagged but im still scared of it going missing



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Reply author: badcomp
Replied on: 05/25/2010 23:06:56
Message:

Yeah, that doesnt look like a very good door lock, doesnt look like it even has pins or a cut key, looks almost like a toy handcuff key you are using. If I were you I would add a deadbolt to the door. Would require cutting a hole in the door and notching the frame but it would ad a bunch of security.
The door does appear to be solid wood which is a bonus and the hinges look okay. The benifit to a newer security deadbolt is the depth of the bolt, they stick out almost 3 times as far as the one you have on there. Here is a link to Kwiksets deadbolt product page:
http://www.kwikset.com/Products/Categories/Deadbolts/Default.aspx
I would also install one of those metal door reinforcer plates that wrap the door to keep someone from breaking the wood if they just tried to kick the door in. They are not expensive and keep the door from failing if someone tried to kick it in. I had put one of these plates on my fraternity room door when I was in school because the door handle area was pretty messed up and the wood was cracking and falling apart when I moved in. Apparently over break another memeber, who I didnt care for so much, got drunk one night and tried to get in my room to play a prank on me. I was told by witnesses that he tried to get in by kicking my door hard for a good 15mins before giving up. The door handle latch had failed and was broken but the deadbolt held it shut and the plate held it all together, if I hadnt put that plate on, the deadbolt would surely have broken out of the door allowing him entry.
He did end up paying me for the damage after he sobered up.
Here is a link to what I am talking about, mine was a little bigger and had a hole for the deadbolt and the door handle in the same plate:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=50232
I also had a heavy duty strike plate for the frame as well kind of like this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998018752
Here is a cool article I just found about door reinforcing and deadbolts locks, etc. It basically explains everthing I have stated before with pictures:
http://www.thenationallocksmith.com/public.asp?2
There are a few down sides to doing it this way, you could easily spend $50 or so on the hardware, you have to invest in a hole saw for your drill to make the hole(they do sell install kits which include the holesaws), once you make the holes you pretty much have to leave the deadbolt once you move out otherwise the landlord might have something to say about the hole in the door you left behind. But it would provide the best security.

An alternative would be a heavy duty hasp like this with a heavy duty padlock:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998004072
But they are fairly easy to defeat with a crow bar if someone was determined.

You could also pretty easily install a large eyebolt into that cinderblock wall to chain to but finding a spot on the H2 to anchor to could prove challenging. You could just drill a hole thru the middle of the floor and drop your chain thru that effectivly anchoring the whole chassis
Well, im burnt out on suggesting. Let me know what you are thinking and I can help find a product for you or a way to do it. I used to manage the hardware department at an Ace when I was in school and dealt with all of the locks and rekeys.


Reply author: Fortis
Replied on: 05/25/2010 23:55:27
Message:

Bricks on three sides is good. but your problem is not so much the door-lock as the door. Putting a nice shiny new lock on that door will be the same as putting up a neon sign advising certain types to simply break/dismantle the door (I can do that type in about 4-06 seconds, and not even make much noise).

New Hinges with DEEPLY set screws of heavier gauge (everyone always misses that), properly anchoured doorframe care to bet the frame is only secured to the bricks with four screws and plastic sleeves?) and then a decent cylander-bolt lock.
The door itself. I like steel framed doors with 20-25mm thick timber planks over the metal frame. The frame should have two bracers and a diagonal, that way it is still a gate even with the wood taken off. One of those doors will cost you , but if you have some welding talent, total materials are less than $50AUD so around 20-25pounds.

Good luck.


PS Consider installing some blocks (Pulleys) in the roof of that storage area, rig up the rope and you should be able to hoist the PW up overhead when not in use, that way you can keep most of the narrow tall space available.


Reply author: emeritus
Replied on: 05/26/2010 05:08:18
Message:

thanks Guys, you have given me a task for this weekend, Badcomp your links and ideas are very usefull, and Fortis i will definately use the pulley system as i need as much space as possible. cheers all


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